BUYING A HONDA CM125 CUSTOM - REVIEW AND VIDEO ROAD TES

HONDA CM125 Custom 2003 (Stills taken from the video road test)
VIEW THE FREE TRAILER FROM OUR EBAY SHOP
MY VERDICT:

For:

Good build quality
Impossibly simple to ride
Comfy
Looks larger than it is
Good tank range
Economical and cheap to run
Low seat height

Against:

Slow
Custom styling won't appeal to some
Slow
Chinese copies not far behind but much cheaper
Slow
INTRODUCTION:

The CM125 Custom was launched in the early 80's and ran for a few years along side the sportier CB125TD Superdream. Those versions had drum front brakes and spoked wheels no rev counter. The new ones have cast wheels and a disk brake at the front. Essentially the same machine. They also have cooler and deeper paint schemes.

WHICH ONE TO GO FOR:

Old, newer or Chinese copy, those are your three options. The old ones had drum brakes but were faster. Most will be knackered by now. The new ones will all be much nicer (they attract a higher quality of learner) condition wise. The Chinese copies are plentiful and cheap. You get one for 599 on the road which is a bargain. But you have to take into account spares availability and the fact there will be no real warranty. They certainly make a compelling case though.

RELIABILITY AND COMMON FAULTS:

Reliability is excellent. The ancient twin cylinder engine was designed to put out 18 bhp so it's totally underwhelmed in the new restricted form. Very little goes wrong, just service it properly and it will keep going and going.

Tyres and chain/sprockets and other consumable last forever too, it's a very cheap bike to run.

CB125TD Superdreams, which share the engine, can suffer from engine wear (bores and valve guides) later in life, but only when they're abused.

The chrome work isn't the best I've seen, protecting the underneath of the mudguards is time well spent.

MODEL HISTORY:

Launched in the early 80's to form an entry point for Honda's range of CM Customs. They were dropped from the range after a few years but somehow reappeared in 2002 in a slightly revised form, new wheels, clocks and disk front brake. The new model was dropped from the range in 2004. The later models are all grey imports, but spares are available as many parts are from other Hondas.

HOW TO AVOID BUYING A LEMON BY USINGMY BUYERGUIDE BELOW
Before seeing the bike:

If it is a private sale make sure you view thebike at the sellers premises - this will help determine if the seller is genuine
Always ask the seller to make sure thebike is cold when you come to view it - warm engines can hide a multitude of sins

Find out whether the bike:

Has got an MOT certificate, is it taxed and for how long?
Has got a race can fitted and if so is the original included?
Has it ever been crashed?
Has got a current V5 and is registered in the sellers name?
Is there any outstanding finance, if you're in doubt buy a HPI report or similar?
Does the bike still have both original keys and the toolkit?
Does the bike have a service history, and if so is it a main dealer one?
How to check the bike:

On liquid cooledengines check for a film of oil in the radiator header tank before warming the bike up- the presence of oil would signify internal engine leaks or a blown head gasket.
Make sure the oil on the dipstick or in the sight glass is smooth and has no bits in it or milky scum - again this could mean internal engine leaks.
On starting from cold make sure the engine does not turn over sluggishly - this could mean a worn starter motorand/or a defective battery.
Check for oil leaks around the engine and on the ground where thebike has been stood - any leaks could indicate expensive oil seal replacement or crash damage.
Check all the lights work and that both levers activate the rear brake light.
Run a finger up the fork stanchions and check for oil and rust - leaking fork seals are fixable, but it will cost youif the forks need re-chroming, also sometimes dismantling forks will damage the fork bushes and they'll need replacing.
Check to make sure the rear shock isn't leaking oil and that any shock linkage is moving smoothly.
Find out how old the tyres are regardless of their apparent wear - some old tyres can appear fine until the conditions get slippy. If in doubt, factor in replacement.
If the bike is a European or American import check to see if the headlight has been altered for UK use.
Check the brake disks for obvious signs of wear, hairline cracks between the vent holes can indicate critically thin disks. Check the brake pads to make sure they still have plenty of material left.
If possible spin each wheel off the ground and check for damaged rims and worn wheel bearings.
With the front wheel off the ground carefully move the steering left and right of centre and feel for any notches in the head stock bearings
Check the Engine and Chassis numbers match the V5, sometimes, especially on imports there will be no engine number on the V5 but this does not necessarily mean a problem, it's optional when you are registering the bike in the UK.
Check the sprockets to make sure they're not 'hooked' and check the chain is not at the end of it's adjustment.
Check behind as many panels as possible for signs of repair. They may point to more serious accident damage, the quality of bodywork repair should indicate the quality of any other repairs. There's no substitute for orginal panels.
Check for bent levers, scuffed mirrors/bar ends/indicators for signs of a drop.
Road testing the bike:

Make sure the bike starts and idles easily, the tick over may have been set high to cover up idling problems or a rattly clutch basket.
Check for smoke on start up, a bike in good condition that has been run regularly should be smoke free, unless it's a 2 stroke of course.
Make sure the brakes do not bind and feel for pulsing through the brake levers, this indicates a warped disk.
Make sure you can select all the gears easily and that you can find neutral when you come to a stop.
Check for a slipping clutch by accelerating hard in top gear from a lowish speed.

Finally, trust your instincts about the car and the seller and do not let your heart rule your head - if you are not happy just walk away!!

Is the CM125 Custom Exclusive the perfect learner bike? Will you be ashamed to be seen on it?Howslow does it go and how far on one tank of fuel? What it's really like toride and live with in the real world? You cansee theCM125in action (warts and all) in our comprehensive and fully independent video road test - simply click on the link below:

Download the video here

Safe guide to buying tickets on ebay

Most of the tickets on ebay are for sold out events and care should be taken when buying tickets. Always read the whole auction, some of them are very long, take care with these auctions as they may have hidden clauses in e.g. face value refunded in event of cancellation when you paid a lot more than face value.

Always check face value, the section of the tickets and check that if the tickets are not in hand confirmation email will be forwarded. Sellers WILL NOT provide this information beforehand as someone has suggested, they normally provide it on receipt of cleared payment.

Types of auction: Buy it now are often the best as you get tickets right away and usually pay less than auctions. Auctions are good as may get for less than face value esp if concert is very near.

Methods of payment. Obviously paypal is fastest and best if tickets are in hand. However, paying via paypal for an event 6 months down the line e.g. Robbie Williams went on sale 10 months before concert and are not expected in hand until 4 weeks before concert. By that time the seller may have been suspended and you cannot claim a refund on paypal after 90 days. I find chq is always best - that way you know where the person lives and are sure it is there name, as someone will have to bank it.

Feedback is a very good indicator, check what they have sold in the last month and how many negatives from buyers they have. Powerseller status is good, but not imperative.

If any doubts ask questions, if no response is recieved then do not bid as if they do not want your business take it elsewhere. Hope you get the tickets you want and it's a smooth transaction whoever you buy off.

acer n35 pda gps

I bought one of these last year, did previously have a 'medion pda/gps' previous to this but had a refund from the retailerwhen it developed a fault, prior to the medion developing a fault, it worked brilliantly, very quick to'warm up'

Wawel Walbryzch History

While surfing ebay for china I found three companies that had the same design of porcelain. The Pattern was white, scalloped, embossed with gold trim. The name of the pattern was not always the same but these three manufactures had the same design. The logos were Wawel, Walbrzych and Royal Kent Collection Poland. I knew they somehow had to be connected.

In my research Idiscovered that in 1831 the founder, Carl Franz Krister, bought two small stoneware plants in Waldenburg, Silesia Germany (this area is now part of Poland) and started producing porcelain tableware. Initially, Krister imitated the Royal Porcelain Factory KPM mark on his Porcelain. However, his plant soon became a leader for the area in production and employment. His products were sold in Europe and North America. This company won industry exhibitions in Wroclaw in 1852 and again in 1857. They alsowon an exhibition in Paris in 1861. Carl Krister died in1869. The company remained a family business until 1920 when it was changed to a limited corporation.

World War I caused many difficulties for the company and in 1921 the company became a part of the Rosenthal Porcelain Group. During this time the factory name was Krister Porzellan Manufakur AG.

After World War II Russian troups occupied Waldenburg. All German Citizens were ordered to leave except the skilled workers from the porcelain factory. They were forced to stay until they trained thePolish imigrants. The Factory became the property of the Polish government. The government changed the name of Waldenburg to Walbrzych and changed the name of the porcelain factory to Porcelain Factory "Kister" and today the nameis Fabryka Porcelany "Krysztof" S.A. They acquired another factory started by Carl Tielsch and that factory was renamed Fabryka Porcelany "Walbrzych". Since 1953 the "Krysztof" factory uses "W-Wawell" as their logo. The "Walbryzch" factory uses a logo that has a modified crown with fine china written above it, a curvy W in the circle of the crownand Walbryzch poland A. D. 1845 under the crown.. (1845 was when Carl Tielsch startedhis factory)

The company is still in existance and since 1993 they havebeen privatized. As a result, the company is now a joint stock company and the workersown shares. Both of these companies have web sites. Today they are one of the largest companies in that area of Poland.

Another factory started by Carl Tielch was in Altwasser a town 6 kilometers from Waldenburg. Altwasser had its name changed to "Stary Mlyn" about the same time Waldenburg was changed to Walbrzych. The current name of this company is Zaklady Porcelany Stolowej Walbrzych S.A. This company has two families that are the main shareholders. 15% still belongs to the state. They do not have a web page.

In 1952/53 the Rosenthal Group built a replacement factory in Landstuhl, Western Germany. They named that plant Krister Porsellan Manufaktor A.G. Rosenthal discontinued this name in 1971. In 2004 Rosenthal had the trademark registration for the Krister marks erased.

As yet, I still don't know exactly how Royal Kent Poland fits into all this. However, on ebay from time to time the ads say "hand crafted by experts in Walbrzych Poland"or occassionally the ads say Wawel poland.I am sure that this company made the Royal Kent Collection Poland porcelain. I know for a fact that at least one design has been used by all three companies.

Porcelain/China

Hydroponics Nutrients

By studying plants growth and development we can now pin point the plants needs during each stage of its life. By using a hydroponics method you can control when the plant is growing leaf, and when it is going to flower. This means the gardener is able to produce plants show ready or on the table when needed.Further studies have shown a plant will grow quicker and stronger when enzymes are introduced to the feeding tanks. These agents can unlock the potential for performance within the plant and allow it to maximize its production of flowers or fruit. Highly recommended for the production of extra special plants for shows and competition but also useful to bring the best out of all garden plants.You can break down a plants diet down to 3 elements Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium (NPK) along with trace elements of Calcium, Magnesium, Sulphur, Copper, Iron, Zinc, Boron, Molybdenum. These are needed in small quantities, but even a small deficiency of any element will kill a plant.Nitrogen (N)Nitrogen is a Group 15 element. Nitrogen makes up about 78% of the atmosphere by volume but the atmosphere of Mars contains less than 3% nitrogen. The element seemed so inert that Lavoisier named it azote, meaning "without life". However, its compounds are vital components of foods, fertilizers, and explosives. Nitrogen gas is colourless, odourless, and generally inert. It is needed most when plants are forming leafy growth.Phosphorus (P)Phosphorus is commonly misspelled "phosphorous". It is an essential component of living systems and is found in nervous tissue, bones and cell protoplasm. It will ensure a healthily root system.Potassium (K)This is used in the plants flowering and fruit formation. The metal is the seventh most abundant and makes up about 1.5 % by weight of the earth's crust. Potassium is an essential constituent for plant growth and it is found in most soils. It is also a vital element in the human diet. However it is an extremely active metal, and will react in air, and on contact with water.In the Hydroponicum we separate our plants into vegetive and flowering. Plants in the vegetate state are feed on Ionic Hydro Grow, and flowing plants are fed on Ionic Bloom. You can see more information on these products from us!The hydroponics gardener has to measure and adjust the nurtients availible to the plant. Each plant has an ideal strength of nutrient and water. We follow the manufactures recomendations to the letter. The amount of nutrients we add to a clean water tank can be measured by an electronic meter. It mesures salts in water, we check that the strength of water everyday.Thanks for reading

Selecting Antique Silver for Collecting

Introduction

There is a big difference in the selection of antique silver for use on your table compared to buying for building an enthusiast's collection. Silver for domestic dining first must fulfil its function, and other characteristics are really secondary. However for building an antique collection the criteria of style, age, hallmarks, maker, age, conditon and rarity all come equally into the buyer's evaluation.

Collecting

Antique silver is one of the areas of collecting where we can findmany hundreds of yearsold, beautiful and durable objects, often for an affordable outlay.

So how to start out? All good collections have a Theme running through them - in antique silver this could be concentrating on a particular period such as the 18th century; oron a style such as Adam, Regencyor Gothic; or onone type of object - teapots, cream jugs, bowls, spoons, marrow scoops, picture back teaspoons, candlesticks, minatures, vesta match cases, boxes, buttons, broaches, or even tongue scrapers or nipple protectors- the choice is nearly endless. Some collectors follow famous makers - de Lamerie (if you can find orafford him), the great Paul Storr, or the leading lady maker Hester Bateman; others collect only from one assay office or region - say Chester, Cork, Channel Islands, Colonial territoriesor Newcastle, and there are many others.So to give focus to your searching, try and start out with a Theme - or two!

It also needs some essential knowledge to pick your winners, and there is no way to get this except by study - specialist books, museums, trade shows, magazines- all good.

Having decided the theme, in additon to collecting as many different examples within your overall theme, what criteria should be used to add items to your collection? The following list and comments may prove helpful:

1. Condition. Finding something 150 to 300 years old in literally 'As New' condition is extremely rare, but it does happen and when it does, go for it, but expect to paya big premium over the same item in ordinary condition - it will be worth it. There will be thousands of ordinary items, but judge carefully whether the vendors claims for 'Mint Condition' (not quite New)are justified; generally they are shall we say 'optimistic'. Whilst on Condition, let's deal with repairs and alterations. All damage and repairs to antique silver reduce its value and desireability to collectors; avoid repaired pieces;avoid mechanically polished pieces which may have had repairs; avoid altered pieces. Bright new looking gilding can conceal repairs and alterations. Alterations are illegal with hallmarked silver, unless rehallmarked with today's date, which destroys their collecting merits. Fine engraving and armorials or crests will enhance the value of many pieces, but the condition of the engraving should match that of the piece, lines that are too bright on a rubbed piece may have been sharpened up, or even recently applied. More on armorials below.

For spoons collectors amongst readers, I have seen quite a number of 18th C 'Apostle' or 'Seal top' spoons being offered; do not be taken in - there is no evidence that any Apostle spoons were made in the 18th C; they went out of style in the 17th C. Those I have seen on offer with 18th C hallmarks were all alterations of table spoons, often done in the first half of the 19th C to dupe beginners in the new vogue then for antique collecting. Don't be taken in again - in the 21st C by the same objects, but you could specialise in collecting 'fakes'!

2. Rarity. Not as common by far as the use of the word 'Rare' by vendorsabout common pieces such as late Georgian Fiddle Pattern flatware. Recognising Rarity does need experience and some depth of knowledge - so aquire these and ignore the numerous daily rarity claimsuntil you can make up yourmind based on your own judgement.

3. Age. This seems obvious; the older an item is the more likely that there are not too many around, but sometimes Age means more than the obvious. For instance, a piece that is the earliest of its particular style, will be much more collectible than one ten years later in the same style. Likewise, Age coupled with great condition is a much sought after combination, and again couple these with Rarity and you are onto a must haveaddition for the collection.

4. Hallmarks. Antique silver hallmarks are the best quide to authenticity, date and origin. They do affect the collecting value by their condition, completeness, legibility and also rarity. Some marks were only used for very short periods, or in small provincial locations, and identifying these can raise the value and attractiveness of the piece to specialist collectors of pieces from such places as Cork, Perth, Channel Islands, colonial Australia or India. Faked hallmarks are a collectors subject on their own, but not for here. Unmarked pieces are not necessarily fakes, however wariness and knowledge are needed to avoid errors. Famous makers marks (Paul de Lamerie, Hester Bateman, Paul Storr for instance) will command prices up to double that of most other makers, and more for the early super quality of Paulde Lamerie.

5.Armorials and Crests. A nice sharp set of engraved Arms or a Crest can enhance the attractiveness and value of any piece of silver. If the engraving is identifiable as a particular noble or is of royal connectionsit can considerably increase the collectability and value of the piece. It is necessary to be aware of later additions of arms or crests, which however attractive can decrease the value, particularly if there have been erasures. The style of the engraving is generally distinctive to the different ages and this should help in deciding whether the engraving is contemporary with the piece. Notice I said 'sharp' engravings - rubbed engravings, or any other decoration as well, will reduce the value to the collecter.

There is no top or bottom price range in antique silver; one can buy very desirable small 18th century pieces for well under 50, or pay a fortune for monumental 19th century works by the leading makers. Seek out the excellent and unusual that fit your theme(s), and a very satisfying collection can be yours. Trade up as you gather experience, as it is better to have fewer super items than many of ordinary qualities.

6. Presentation. On eBay, be very wary of poor photography (not necessary even with a cheap camera), and also vague descriptions and dating; they may cover up something that is not all it should be for the collector.

Todate(2008) this guide has had over a 1000 viewings, and I hope it has started some readers on the path to addictive silver collecting; it is a wonderful desease! Happy hunting.

(The writer has been collecting antique silver for over 45 years, and specialises in the 18th century,as well asspoons of all ages and rare styles in particular).

Updated June 2008

Faking it

Now, fakes are so good (and expensive) that you simply can't tell the difference.

So how do you know what's real and what's not?

Some clues:

The price. A new Louis Vuitton handbag for 100 isnot authentic. The real thingoften sells for 700 to well over 1000.Same thing for Prada and Gucci.
Where it's being sold. Authorized dealers for Chanel, LV, etc. do not sell handbags out of the trunk of a car. Nor do they sell themat online auctionsor at home parties.
Point of origin tag. Designer apparel or leather goods with a "Made in Taiwan" tag are not authentic.

Buying online

So what if you are shopping online and come across a great deal on designer apparel or accessories? How do you know you're getting the real thing?

Read the fine print.

Some Retailers or items for sale in an auction will lure you in with words that you're likely to search for like Chanel or Gucci. Many sites also use overkill -- "authentic," "genuine" and other enticing adjectives -- to describe their fashion items.

It's only by reading carefully through the descriptions will you see comments like "Inspired by..." to let you know that the merchandise isn't an exact copy (whichtheRetailersclaimgives them immunityfrom trademark infringement.)

Only buy the goods from an authorized dealer (a department store or a company outlet). Many labels sell directly to the public on company-owned sites such as Gucci.com, eLuxury.com (Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, etc.) and Coach.com.

If in doubt about an outlet, contact the designer directly and ask if you're buying from an authorized dealer.