Thursday, August 19, 2010

Easy Guide to Checking Negative and Neutral Feedback

Your finger is poised on the mouse, ready to click on the Bid or Buy button
but you have your reservations about the seller. You can see they have a few
negatives or neutrals but you don't have hours to sift through thousands of
comments to find the red

sky yellow house card free view 20 pounds!!

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Its Too good to be true!

Having just read the one about the guy who bought a fake shure sm58, i have worked in the music retail business for many years, and because i know some of these products are less than Trade VAT price, it seems quite obvious to me that there is something not quite right. Before purchasing a microphone, check the web prices with established music retailers, anything more than a couple of quid cheaper and you are probably looking at a fake. profit margins on genuine mics are quite low, so if its really cheap, it probably is not the real thing.

A simple, no-nonsense, begginers guide to SLR lens

From personal experience, I know the daunting feeling when you own your first SLR camera and have absoloutely no Idea which lens you should purchase. That is why I have decided to write this article, to help new-comers to this amazing new world of expressive imagination.

The Single lens reflex (SLR) camera.

This amazing machine is unlike any other camera, by doing something so simple as to press a button, turn a lens and put on another lens, you have been transported into another world. Because the point of an SLR is to have interchangeable lenses, most manufacturers sell numerous ranges of lenses. Canon and Nikon are two companies who are praised for this.

Which lens?

There are different categories for lens which are all designed to do something different. I am only going to inform you on the basic categories.

Primes - This is a very vague category, It means that it only has one FOCAL LENGTH. This is a fancy word for a lens that does not zoom, and only magnifies to one consistent magnification.

Zoom - The opposite of Prime, it can change from one focal length to another, these are more convenient than primes but often have lower optical quality than primes.

Wide angle - The name really gives this away, these lens are designed to get as much 'Picture' in as possible, however can sometimes be distorted and make the image slightly round.

Fisheye - These lenses give the image an almost completely round characteristic and make very good distorted or sometimes even 'wacky' photos!

Telephoto - This means that a lens that has a long focal length therefore they bring subjects that are far away closer
however this doesn't actually mean that lens has a zoom feature.

Macro - These lens are primarily designed to photograph very small subjects from a very close distance, these are also good portrait lenses.

Purchasing a lens

I have informed you on the basic types of lens so that you have an idea of what you probably want, you should now seek professional advice. However, I would like to give some last 'survival tips!'

Do's and Don't's

Buying a lens that was originally designed for a 35mm SLR (Film SLR) and then fitting it on a compatible digital SLR will often increase the focal length, for example, fit a compatible 35mm lens onto a Canon EOS 350D (Digital SLR) and the focal length shall be multiplied by 1.6!

Cheap immitation lenses are a flase economy! You often have an incovenient 'Push and Pull' zoom mechanism instead of a turning mechanism, there is no auto focus so you have to use manual focus. This will result, especially in action photography, in disappointing photos. They are much larger than 'proper lenses' and the low quality optics will only result in tears.

If you have purchased a lens online ( is great for the British, they ship world wide,) you should:

Put the box on a soft surface, such as a bed, making sure though that the box does not roll away.

Inspect the packaging, has the box been opened or resealed? If so, do not proceed, get the ordering information and contact the seller immediately.

If the packaging is good then proceed to open the package CAREFULLY, do not use a knife or any cutting tools!

Lenses are fragile pieces of precision optics, pull the lens out of the box gently.

Inspect the physical condition of the lens, if it is damaged, or is scratched or has any imperfections then do not proceed, get the ordering information and contact the seller immediately!

Gently shake the lens, listen to make sure that there are no broken internal components.

Lenses are not usually sold with an extensive user manual, this of course, calls for celebration! In your parade, ensure that you do not knock the lens onto the floor, as this would be dissapointing!

If you are as unfortunate as to receive a long manual, then just read the quick start guide.

Installing a lens should be covered in the quick start guide! If it is not:

Take your camera, and press the lens eject button followed by twisting the lens anti-clockwise. Remove the lens, immediately install both lens caps and the body cap. Put the lens somewhere safe such as a camera bag.

Take the new lens and remove both lens caps and the body cap, carefully but swiftly Insert the lens where it fits and turn the lens clockwise until it moves no further, you should probably hear 'click'. Turn the lens onto Auto-focus mode (if it has it) and then test the new lens!

I wish all the best luck to new SLR camera users, I am serious, these are bundles of fun that turn sliced break into tea-coasters!


Anti-Static Protection: If you're interested in soldering a lot of static-sensitive parts (e.g. CMOS chips or MOSFET transistors), more advanced and expensive soldering iron stations use static-dissipativematerials in their construction to ensure that static does not build up on the iron itself. You may see these listed as "ESD safe" (electrostatic discharge proof). The cheapest irons won't necessarily be ESD-safe but never the less will still probably perform perfectly well in most hobby or educational applications if you take the usual anti-static precautions when handling the components. The tip would need to be well earthed (grounded) in these circumstances

Sealing a sink or bath

In conjunction with the other guide on this subject, the following make for a perfect seal without the need for a steady hand :-

1 Use a mould resistant silicone sealant and do not be afraid of the more expensive brands, cheap sealants are often inferior.

2 Dip your finger in clear handwashing solution before smoothing out. This will prevent any sticking to your finger and ensure the surface is very smooth at the end

3 Use masking tape to define the line to be sealed. This will prevent any excess sealant ending up where it is not wanted. After removing the masking tape, run a finger along the sealant again. This will smooth out the ridges left by the tape and gives a second seal, further protecting against leaks.

4 When sealing onto tiles, ensure that the grout goes to the bottom, otherwise the water may find its way behind the sealant and leak into the room below.


I ordered a gamecube game for my daughter's birthday from Gowings Store on eBay.

When the game arrived it was damaged.

I sent several e-mails to Gowings Store to ask for a replacement, but my e-mails have been totally ignored.