Thursday, August 19, 2010

Easy Guide to Checking Negative and Neutral Feedback

Your finger is poised on the mouse, ready to click on the Bid or Buy button
but you have your reservations about the seller. You can see they have a few
negatives or neutrals but you don't have hours to sift through thousands of
comments to find the red

sky yellow house card free view 20 pounds!!

get a sky card direct from sky this will give free to air and free to view channels. all bbc itv ch4@5
copy right SKY!
"I already have digital satellite equipment - what else do I need?

All you need to get access to the free channels available on the digital satellite platform is a freesat viewing card which costs just 20."


call sky on - 08702405651

microphones

Its Too good to be true!


Having just read the one about the guy who bought a fake shure sm58, i have worked in the music retail business for many years, and because i know some of these products are less than Trade VAT price, it seems quite obvious to me that there is something not quite right. Before purchasing a microphone, check the web prices with established music retailers, anything more than a couple of quid cheaper and you are probably looking at a fake. profit margins on genuine mics are quite low, so if its really cheap, it probably is not the real thing.

A simple, no-nonsense, begginers guide to SLR lens

From personal experience, I know the daunting feeling when you own your first SLR camera and have absoloutely no Idea which lens you should purchase. That is why I have decided to write this article, to help new-comers to this amazing new world of expressive imagination.

The Single lens reflex (SLR) camera.

This amazing machine is unlike any other camera, by doing something so simple as to press a button, turn a lens and put on another lens, you have been transported into another world. Because the point of an SLR is to have interchangeable lenses, most manufacturers sell numerous ranges of lenses. Canon and Nikon are two companies who are praised for this.

Which lens?

There are different categories for lens which are all designed to do something different. I am only going to inform you on the basic categories.

Primes - This is a very vague category, It means that it only has one FOCAL LENGTH. This is a fancy word for a lens that does not zoom, and only magnifies to one consistent magnification.

Zoom - The opposite of Prime, it can change from one focal length to another, these are more convenient than primes but often have lower optical quality than primes.

Wide angle - The name really gives this away, these lens are designed to get as much 'Picture' in as possible, however can sometimes be distorted and make the image slightly round.

Fisheye - These lenses give the image an almost completely round characteristic and make very good distorted or sometimes even 'wacky' photos!

Telephoto - This means that a lens that has a long focal length therefore they bring subjects that are far away closer
however this doesn't actually mean that lens has a zoom feature.

Macro - These lens are primarily designed to photograph very small subjects from a very close distance, these are also good portrait lenses.

Purchasing a lens

I have informed you on the basic types of lens so that you have an idea of what you probably want, you should now seek professional advice. However, I would like to give some last 'survival tips!'

Do's and Don't's

Buying a lens that was originally designed for a 35mm SLR (Film SLR) and then fitting it on a compatible digital SLR will often increase the focal length, for example, fit a compatible 35mm lens onto a Canon EOS 350D (Digital SLR) and the focal length shall be multiplied by 1.6!

Cheap immitation lenses are a flase economy! You often have an incovenient 'Push and Pull' zoom mechanism instead of a turning mechanism, there is no auto focus so you have to use manual focus. This will result, especially in action photography, in disappointing photos. They are much larger than 'proper lenses' and the low quality optics will only result in tears.

If you have purchased a lens online (WarehouseExpress.com is great for the British, they ship world wide,) you should:

Put the box on a soft surface, such as a bed, making sure though that the box does not roll away.

Inspect the packaging, has the box been opened or resealed? If so, do not proceed, get the ordering information and contact the seller immediately.

If the packaging is good then proceed to open the package CAREFULLY, do not use a knife or any cutting tools!

Lenses are fragile pieces of precision optics, pull the lens out of the box gently.

Inspect the physical condition of the lens, if it is damaged, or is scratched or has any imperfections then do not proceed, get the ordering information and contact the seller immediately!

Gently shake the lens, listen to make sure that there are no broken internal components.

Lenses are not usually sold with an extensive user manual, this of course, calls for celebration! In your parade, ensure that you do not knock the lens onto the floor, as this would be dissapointing!

If you are as unfortunate as to receive a long manual, then just read the quick start guide.

Installing a lens should be covered in the quick start guide! If it is not:

Take your camera, and press the lens eject button followed by twisting the lens anti-clockwise. Remove the lens, immediately install both lens caps and the body cap. Put the lens somewhere safe such as a camera bag.

Take the new lens and remove both lens caps and the body cap, carefully but swiftly Insert the lens where it fits and turn the lens clockwise until it moves no further, you should probably hear 'click'. Turn the lens onto Auto-focus mode (if it has it) and then test the new lens!

I wish all the best luck to new SLR camera users, I am serious, these are bundles of fun that turn sliced break into tea-coasters!

THE ANTI-STATIC SOLDERING IRON GUIDE

Anti-Static Protection: If you're interested in soldering a lot of static-sensitive parts (e.g. CMOS chips or MOSFET transistors), more advanced and expensive soldering iron stations use static-dissipativematerials in their construction to ensure that static does not build up on the iron itself. You may see these listed as "ESD safe" (electrostatic discharge proof). The cheapest irons won't necessarily be ESD-safe but never the less will still probably perform perfectly well in most hobby or educational applications if you take the usual anti-static precautions when handling the components. The tip would need to be well earthed (grounded) in these circumstances

Sealing a sink or bath

In conjunction with the other guide on this subject, the following make for a perfect seal without the need for a steady hand :-


1 Use a mould resistant silicone sealant and do not be afraid of the more expensive brands, cheap sealants are often inferior.


2 Dip your finger in clear handwashing solution before smoothing out. This will prevent any sticking to your finger and ensure the surface is very smooth at the end


3 Use masking tape to define the line to be sealed. This will prevent any excess sealant ending up where it is not wanted. After removing the masking tape, run a finger along the sealant again. This will smooth out the ridges left by the tape and gives a second seal, further protecting against leaks.


4 When sealing onto tiles, ensure that the grout goes to the bottom, otherwise the water may find its way behind the sealant and leak into the room below.

GOWINGS STORE - WARNING

I ordered a gamecube game for my daughter's birthday from Gowings Store on eBay.


When the game arrived it was damaged.


I sent several e-mails to Gowings Store to ask for a replacement, but my e-mails have been totally ignored.

Crest Strips

Since I have been drinking a tons of green tea, I have found its starting to
stain my teeth. (I'm a tea addict..what can I say)I use the usual tooth
whitener tooth paste, and I have them polished at the dentist. But they
embarrassingly go back to their horrible colour. Now I have used a lot of
whiteners that "claim" they will make my teeth pearly white, you know the ones
with the trays that make you dribble like some mad person with
rabies.Then I saw these Crest strips, being a bit dubious it took some
time before I parted with my cash. I purchased some on Ebay (the premium ones),
and tried them out as soon as they hit my doormat.I have to say these
are absolutely wonderful, ..after the 2nd day of trying, my teeth were starting
to look whiter. You get 2 lots of strips, 14 for the tops and 14 for the bottom
teeth. You have to careful when you peel the gel strip off, if you get
distracted the thing tends to stick to everything else. Also if you have sores
on your gums, or cuts I would advise for you not to use them. Lets just say, I
had a cut on my finger and a bit of the gel got in it...it stung like
crazy.I also have sensitive teeth, and these strips are perfectly fine. I
have had no side effects when using this product. Its not advisable to try and
answer the phone when you have the bottom strip on, other wise you end up
sounding like Janet Street Porter!I would certainly recommend these to
all out there who have stained teeth, who want that dazzling smile..and not have
to pay wads of cash on getting them done professionally. (Oh and a litte plug for someone ) The best place
on Ebay to get these... Chemist-4-u

fake aftershaves/perfumes

the seller 777punto777 is trading and selling fake aftershaves/ perfumes, he sold me 1 and refunded mymoney, other ebay members have experienced this as well, he has made his feedback private as he knows e is guilty though he is still trading, i have reported this to ebay,

Anthony/Tony Robbins UPW List of Songs / Music

If you already have been to UPW event (Unleash the power within) by Anthony Robbins in London, you know how fun it was and so many great dancing songs were played.


Pleasetype the following link toyour address barand the list of the songs will appear on your screen:



Please note thatthis list is only to help you find the songs easier by having the name of them.


Love and Light


Delbay.co.uk

renault dti cam belt failures

had a dti 1.9 laguna on a v plate,80k miles,full service history etc,etc.there is a common fault on these engines i found to my peril.the cam belt had been done by the main dealer at 71k,that was fine.


the problem lies with the alternator tensioner,it has a plastic pulley which fails!!you get no warning when it may go.mine collasped threw the belt which coils round the crank pulley,and in turn throws the cam belt off.nasty,cost about 1800 in the dealer,i repaired it my self and itstill cost 600 in parts alone.so please be careful when buying the dti engined renaults,if you get one replace the tensioner at least,cost 150 from dealer.

get rid of those fleas without spending a fortune

has your dog got fleas then try these home remedies they really work and will save you a fortune.


tried and tested




    Fleas and mange ( this one works wonders give it a go)Add a little vinegar to your pet's drinking water to fight fleas and mange.



    Repellent ( This is a relly good one)2 cups vinegar, 1 lemon juice, 1 cup warmwater, 1 tbsp. Eucalyptus oil, 1 tbsp citronella oil - Put in a spray bottle and spray dog's coat. spray each day for a week.



    Fleas in the home ( not tried as i dont allow the dogs into the main house area)For your house: be inhospitable.Try this recipe if your house has already been overrun with fleas. Mix 1-1/2 pounds of diatomaceous earth, 1-1/2 pounds of natural borax, and 1 cup of salt. Put some of this mixture in your vacuum cleaner bag and vacuum all carpets thoroughly. If needed, you can also sprinkle a little of the mix into any confined areas that your pet can't get at, such as closets or small crevices behind furniture. It may take weeks or even months of weekly treatments to get rid of all adult fleas, larvae, and eggs.Make sure to purchase the diatomaceous earth and natural borax at a garden store, not at a pool store. The type of diatomaceous earth sold at pool stores has a high crystalline silica content that is dangerous to humans and pets. Buy only diatomaceous earth with a crystalline silica content that is less than 3 percent.


Shea Butter - a natural moisturiser

Making your own soap and cosmetics is very rewarding and these guides look at some of the ingredients sold as an addition for soap making and cosmetic making.


Shea Butter


Grown in Africa, particularly Ghana, Shea nuts are cold pressed to produce Shea Butter.


Traditionally used in Africa as cooking and heating oil, it has for centuries been used as a decongestant, as a healing salve, and as a skin care lotion.


Recently discovered in the west, Shea butter is widely used to moisturise, protect and regenerate the skin.


Shea butter helps cell regeneration and capillary circulation. This favours the healing of small wounds, skin cracks and crevices, and skin ulcers. In the cosmetic field, this property is an asset against skin aging. It has restructuring effects on the epidermis, also on dry and fragile hair. It also has natural sunscreen properties and so is ideal for use in soap making and cosmetics.

Nigerian Fraudsters- their methods as i know them...

I have been using ebay for quite a short amount of time and have mainly only bought things. Which, i have to say has always been an easy an enjoyable process. Until...
I tried to sell something.
I had previously seen some advertisments from sellers expressing in BIG BOLD letters; RELISTED DUE TO FRAUDSTERS! But i never really understood what this meant and found the seller to be somewhat off putting. Little did i know that this was the only obvious indication that there is something seriously wrong with the whole process of selling your goods on ebay. And silly me, i should have scoured the internet for clues as to what this could mean. The fact that i didn't has cost me a fair bit of my much needed cash.
But should i; an honest and trustworthy user of ebay be entirely responsible for protecting myself from scammers? For when one doesn't know of such things one doesn't tend to look into them.
I decided to sell my Sony PS2 Slimline console and naively assumed that things would go as smoothly selling as they had done when buying. This was my mistake. Or should i say that i think that it was ebay's mistake. For they do not warn you. In fact they offer you many expensive listing options. Which, i decided would be best to utilise seeing as i believed it would all be so easy and that it would be well worth it. Now, i will get to the individuals who believe they can get away with scamming people on a daily basis in a moment..
Firstly i will touch on ebay's innefficiency when it comes to policies and protection of it much needed users in regards to this problem. Ebay are simply making a killing out of this. You pay the listing fees, scammers end your auction early using buy it now or just waiting until your auction ends. Then you have to relist. At a cost. And guess who gets those expensive relisting fees? Ebay.
Now, i don't wish to imply that ebay are involved with these particularly odious individuals. I merely wish to convey that their apparent inability to sort out this behaviour just happens to work in their favour. I am not able to list my item any longer, so i have lost out on my chance to sell my item but i have also lost a sum near to 20. That was what a week of stress cost me. To no avail. EBAY: SORT IT OUT!! How can you expect people to sell their goods on a site solely based on trust when your users no longer trust you?
Now, after much ear bending, i come to my knowledge of these fraudsters who seem to come out of Nigeria.

Firstly, they tend to have joined on the very day they "bid" for your item. They also tend to be registered in the united states. And when they win your item(s) you will usually recieve an e-mail similiar to this...

Hello dear seller. Seasons greetings to you. I am currently serving our beloved nation in iraq with the united nations and i have bought this for my daughter who works (somewhere in africa) It is her birthday this coming weekend and i don't want her to be dissapointed in me. PLS send me the invioce so i pay immediately. this is urgent.

The daughter thing is a re-ocurring theme and i have had my listing distroyed 5 times from people sending me variants of this email after bidding on my item.
One other thing... As a result of this sort of behaviour i now think that using the 'buy it now' tool is no-longer applicable as it is like painting yourself red, waving your arms up and down screaming in an enclosure with a bull. Your going to get rammed.
Come on ebay. I just wanted to sell something. Not pay you money to allow scammers to take advantage of me. I feel victimised and foolish and i'm sure there are others out there like me. How long before everyone is unhappy?

Rip of postage costs

Im sick of people quite clearly charging over the top postage on there items.


Dvds, ps2 games or anything with that size case only cost 75pence to post your envelope which are about 30pence yet people charge you 3.00 postage and dont even bother to walk to the post office to post your item for a couple of days.


Even guitars and ornamental things from china the postage is always something ridiculas like 199.


I you want something for a certain price then put the correct postage and start the auction from the price you want.


Ive just bought a psp memory stick and the postage was 12.99 so I would expect express delivery but it didnt even arrive the next day even though I paid at 8.30am. If this is a business like they said then they know ive just paid cause they sell hundreds every week so they must check all the time.


I think ebay should do something about these scamming peasants. We should be allowed to claim postage back if we think we have been over charged by these money grabbing vermin scumbags.


If you think the postage is overpriced then tell the seller and look elsewhere. There is always someone else selling something you want at a reasonable p p cost.


If you disagree with my comments then chances are your probably a seller and that just tough.


Unless your happy to pay high postage costs then your just a fool.

COLIC-( DR BROWN'S

Hi just read a very useful guide about colic babies(angielondon) and would just like to add that the drops take up to two weeks to work, were the bottles start to work more or less straight away.


I found the tommee tippee health check bottles best for me, but you do have to do certain things when making them up.


* Make formulawithout the wheel, tubeand valve in first.


*Then when reheating bottle unscrew the lid so that the valve doesn't expand.


*The teat has a cross instead of a hole (you may have to break the seal first!) this means that baby has to suck for the milk ,like they do from the breast.


*Theyhave a helpline that you can use, i recieved replacement valves and advise on how to stop them expanding.(try not to use very hot water when cleaning the valves)

MAMAS AND PAPAS REFUND/REPLACEMENT/FAULTY PRODUCTS

HI I JUST WANTED TO TELL PEOPLE ABOUT THE PROBLEM I FOUND WITH MAMAS AND PAPAS AND HOW THEY RESOLVED IT.MY HUSBAND AND I BOUGHT A PLIKO TRAVEL SYSTEM FROM MAMAS AND PAPAS IN YORK.WHEN WE GOT IT HOME AND UNPACKED IT WE FOUND THE SECURITY TAGS HAD ALL BEEN LEFT ON.I IMMEDIATLY RANG THEM UP AND WAS ADVISED TO TAKE IT TO MY LOCAL WOOLIES TO REMOVE SECURITY TAGS FOR US.AS WE LIVE OVER 50 MILES FROM YORK.WE ALSO RECIEVED A TEN POUND GIFT VOUCHER FROM MAMAS AND PAPAS.ALSO WHEN A FAULT DEVELOPED WITH THE PLIKO 3 MONTHS LATER I RANG THEM AND THEY SENT A COURIER TO COLLECT AND RETURNED THE PLIKO ALL FREE OF CHARGE AND REPAIRED.I DONT UNDERSTAND HOW A COMPANYS POLICYS COULD CHANGE AS MUCH AS PEOPLE ARE SAYING IN THE OTHER GUIDES I HAVE READ.ALL I CAN SAY IS I THINK MAMAS AND PAPAS ARE A GOOD STORE.

SCOOBY DOO FIGURES

SCOOBY DOO single figurescan be purchessed at Tesco for 3.97 including scooby, shaggy and two different monsters,a lot cheeper than some.Tesco is also on the net

SPOTTING A SHILL BIDDER - THE EASY WAY

Hi all traders I used to love Ebay -what a fantastic way to make a bit extra and the little buzz you get when your ad sells-you did something right! Sadly these days it seems to be changing due to shilling and unfriendly traders eager to sabotage your feedback and those charging over the odds -I recently found 2 dvd sets online free postage and extremely cheaper than those advertised on Ebay-these are listed in the tv drama guide.


Shill bidding -has anyone ever noticed when you are bidding on something big, say a dvd box set as I have previously,reserves not met up toa point and then in comes a new bidder just joined a day or so ago with no feedback-hmmm!This has happened to me a no of times,I've asked myself is it a genuinenew trader or are the sellers shilling-or is it a saboteur asI too haveexperienced? Then the 2nd chance offer comesdays after the listing ends.Oh and the newbie does not bid ever again as I have painstakingly checked this with my new found tool and friend -details below


I since foundthis fabulous website not affilliated with Ebay at all but WoW you will be pleasantly surprised at what it can do-such as filter out the shillers and bag you a bargain -I'll leave you all to make up your own mind.


Goofbay.co.uk


Its my first guide so hope I've been interesting/helpful or both ha!


Regards Posh


beware of purchases from China-sellercn2005

I MADE THE MISTAKE OF PURCHASING AN ULTRASOUND MACHINE FROM EBAY POWER SELLER IDsellercn2005 BASED INCHINA.


ITEM WORKED GREAT FOR FIRST 3 MONTHS THEN DEVELOPED AN ELECTRICAL FAULT.I CONTACTED THE BUYER WHO ADVISED ME TO SEND THE ITEM BACK AND HE WOULD REFUND OR REPLACE THE ITEM.


HOW STUPID DO I FEEL? : PURCHASED ITEM POSTAGE COST POSTAGE COST TO RETURN NO ITEM OR REFUND NO REPLY TO EMAILS.(LOST IN TOTAL AROUND 200.00) AS ITEM WAS OVER PURCHASED OVER 60 DAYS,NO HELP AVAILABLE FROM EBAY OR PAYPAL.


AS FAR AS I AM AWARE THIS IS THE ONLY WAY I CAN WARN PROSPECTIVE BUYERS FROM THIS EBAYER WHO IS STILL TRADING.

IRON OILS AND THERMODYNAMICS

GHD THERMODYNAMICS

GHD have just launched the thermodynamics range in this range are the new 3 thermol protectors for use during and before styling ,available in 3 variables for maximum protection for your hair type.each formulated for added control for unruly hair while adding sustained moisture when used with heat styling tools.

Normal to fine hair.light weight protection formulated for fine to normal hair, with ingrediants that deflect and absorb heat with an added UVA protector, meadow foam oil maintains moisture and help keep the elasticity during heat styling

Dry, Course hairControls unruly hair and add sustained miosture when styling with this light hold thermol protector, contains ingrediants that deflect and absorb heat and protect the hair shaft and contains a UVA protector

Weak and Damaged Strenthens and nourishes the hair and is an medium hold thermol protector that deflects the heat protecting the hair shaft, contains a intensive strengthening ingredient designed to deliver optimal anti-breakage benefits,building strength and producing a film aroung the hair shaft to protect the surface of the hair.SHE IRON OIL SHE iron oil is for all hair types, protecting the hair shaft from the heat given off by hair irons and then producing a light invisable film around the hair to protect the surface of the hair from the heat of the irons, this light invisable film also help to keep the hair straighter for longer creating a barrier in damp weather.Directions for all: Spray onto clean hair prior to blow drying or use on each section of dry hair prior to straighteningIRON OILS AND THERMOL PROTECTORS

Booking paintball games via ticket agencies

Generally speaking you cannot beat booking a paintball game with any one else other than direct with the site owner themselves, if you dont and book online with a ticket agency or similar then there is a very good chance you could be paying well over the odds and maybe missing out on a GAME ORGANISERS DEAL, something that most independant site owners offer as standard. Atour site for exampleI offer the following


Book 10 players: You get a free day and 500 free paintballs


Book 20 players: You get a free day and 1000 free paintballs


Book 30 players: You get a free day, 2000 free paintballs and a free set of goggles with a built in fan and thermal lense


Book 50 players: You get a free day, 2000 paintballs AND a free set of goggles with a built in fan and thermal lens and an entry level paintball markerthats yours to keep (not just for the day)


We also recently introduced a GoldV.I.P membershipcard that gives you 100 free paintballs when you come again and a Platinum V.I.P membership card that gives you 200 free paintballs when you come again.


Try getting anything likethat online with a ticket agency......... (GOOD LUCK)!


The only reasonwe do this is because if you have ever organised a group outing such as a paintballing day then you know just how much damned hard work it is for the organiser, by giving you these deals its just our way of saying "thanks for the effort mate". When you book a days paintball with any site you ring them , enquire about a certain date, we either say "yes thats ok" or not, if its ok then we pencil you in the game diaryand sit back waiting for the deposits to come in, at that point thats our job done, but foryou as the organiser thats where your job gets harder, you are the one that has to organise how many people want to go, possibly organise transportAND try to collect the deposits in {thats the hardest bit} then when you`ve got them inyou then have to get the cash to us or send a cheque etc etc. So basically what im saying is look in your local Yellow Pages,Pink directory, Thompsons local, BT phonebook or any similar publicationfirst and find the nearest independantly owned site to you andbook with them direct. Dont assume that booking online with a ticket agencyis cheaperbecause itsNOT!! If you are going buy gift vouchers or tickets make sure you buy them from the site you are going to, its always better and cheaper


Speaking directlyto the site owner or siteoperator you will alwaysget more comprehensive, truthfull and importantinformation than you will by trying to book online with a ticket agency and you willalso find out if the site you want to play at do a similar offer or deal tous that you may otherwise have missed out on.Try to forget booking via ticket agencies particularly most of the ones on Ebay as they are basically and mostly more expensive than booking direct with your local paintball site. Ticket agencies such as Go Ballistic, Minisrty of Paintball, Nationwide Paintball andInternational Paintball Group or IPG/DELTA FORCEas they are also knownwill tell you to expect to get through a "minimum of 400 to 600 paintballs for a full day session" or A"minimum of 200 to 400 paintballsfor a half day session" when infact almost all paintball sites you go to you should budget for around 500 paintballs for half a day and 1000 paintballs for a full day even for a first timer!!! We even get some new players get through 2000 paintballs in one day, and recently one guy got through 3000 before lunch!!! Agencies use the words "expect" and "minimum"to makeit sound cheaper than it really is justto get your interest.. I CAN TELL YOU NOW ABSOLUTLY NO ONE CAN MAKE 200 PAINTBALLS LAST AN ENTIRE MORNING OR 400 PAINTBALL LAST AN ENTIRE DAY..Even if you hide at the back of the playing field you will still need to shoot at the enemy team when they come to get you or your flag!!!You willalso need towatch out for the booking charges/feesagencies hit you with after you have bought the entry tickets, IT ALMOST ALWAYS WORKS OUT 10 PER PERSON MORE EXPENSIVETHAN BOOKING DIRECT AT YOUR LOCAL SITE {even with your first 100 SO CALLED "FREE PAINTBALLS" }!!!


Thanks for reading this I hope this guide is helpful and happy paintballing to you wherever you are.


Regards

External Hard Drives

This guide should help you decide on a few factors when choosing an external storage solution!1. Storage Space Size is the most obvious and important factor when choosing an external drive.There is plenty of choice, usually ranging from between 40GB-1TB (1000GB)You can work out how much storage space you will need. It is dependant on what you will be saving on the drive.For example if you are going to be using the drive to store music.. you can store 5,000 tracks for every 20GB on the drive. So you would choose the size accordingly.If you are to be saving video on the drive you will need more space than a music drive.Simple word documents and spreadsheets take up very little room and so a smaller drive is required.Most people, however, like to store a bit of everything on their drive. Or use it to back up all their files!In which case the bigger the better.It also gets cheaper 'Per Gigabyte' the more you buy.e.g80GB might be 55 (which is approx 68p per Gigabyte).120GB might be 70 (approx 58p per Gigabyte).The more you buy the more you save.2. Connection ("Bridge")Your choice of connection between the computer and the drive will be dependant on your computer system.If your computer has a firewire port, try to find a drive with firewire connection. This method of connection gets the fastest transfer speeds. Otherwise, make sure your system has USB ports and buy a USB connection drive. Below are the average speeds of USB/FIREWIRE on an XP computer with AMD ATHLON 1700 PROCESSORFIREWIRE - READ - 38MB/SecFIREWIRE - WRITE - 24.4MB/SecUSB - READ - 30.1MB/SecUSB - WRITE - 24MB/Sec3. Cooling Method

A cool drive, is a reliable drive. Basically if your drive gets too hot, it will become corrupt or loose data.Many external drives now come with a built in fan. These cool the disk very well but can make unwanted noise.Some drives are made of highly heat conductive alloys and dispurse heat by simply transfering it into the air.There is a heat sink in contact with the drive which draws the heat to the outer casing where it is cooled by surrounding air.If you dont mind a bit of extra background noise, choose a fan as these are the best cooling method.Some of the more expensive non-fan models are just fine at cooling themselves silently! Others will not last long

Now that you have decided on the above three variables

for example.. you may have decidedYou need 1TB for maximum storage capacity of media etc, a FIREWIRE connection bridge and a BUILT IN FANThis would be at the higher end of the price spectrum but will give excellent performance.

OR

You may need only 40GB for backing up word documents etc, a USB connection bridge and NO FANThis would be a budget way to back up files and should still be reliable if the heat sink is effective

Once you've made up your mind, search away on eBay! There are many sellers which provide excellent service and top quality products.I Believe RPM SYSTEMS are the best. Providing next day delivery on both FAN and NON FAN drives. Plenty of storage space options and firewire and usb options. They are well priced and all come with a 12 month warranty! Check their items out here.. RPM SYSTEMS

I hope you found this guide useful and you get along well with your new drive!

Dodgy Oakley Sellers/Buyers

To anyone who reads this!


I have been trading for around 4 years now since I was diagnosed with cancer, it gives me something to while the time away with and of course hopefully make a bob or two, now there are a lot of Genuine Sellers/Buyers out there.....but there are a lot of Con-Men/Fraudsters out there, I have lost count of how many emails I have received supposedly from eBay/PayPal, Luckily for me I can spot them a mile away and forward them on to eBay/PayPal respectively, what are they doing to stop this, well as far as I can see absolutely nothing, I am still receiving them daily, if you read this and want any help with any aspect of eBay/PayPal please drop me an email and I will help you as much as I possibly can, so please remember when in doubtabout an email delete it, eBay/PayPal will never ask for your details! now I have just sold another pair of Genuine Oakley this morning {those of you who have bought from me in the past will know that mine are GENUINE } the buyer questioned wether they were real or not as he/she had read somewhere that genuine Oakley do not have stickers on the lens, well some genuine Oakley do! Flak Jacket come with a HDO sticker on the left lens, disproving that theory, if you are looking at a pair anywhere on ebay and are wary about buying/bidding on them drop pleaseme the item number and I will tell you if they are Genuine or NOT


Regards


Robert Shevill


robshev12@btinternet.com

Air Hockey Rules


The Cowshed Air Hockey Tables



The rules of air hockey

An air hockey table can be considered an investment in entertainment. You'll get hours of fun for years to come when you add an air hockey table to your game room. Whether you play air hockey for leisure, social fun, or for competition, knowing the official rules as established by the United States Air Hockey Association will only add to the overall enjoyment of your air hockey table.


Making house rules

Of course, you may feel free to establish your own house rules, since the main idea of playing air hockey is to have fun. If house rules will preside over your air hockey table, be sure that both players know what they are and agree to them before facing off.



United States Air Hockey Association rules

The following is an interpretation of the standard rules of air hockey to get you started. For the complete list of rules and sanctioned equipment, consult the USAA's Web site.


1. A player may stand anywhere around the air hockey table on his or her side of the centerline. He/she may not stand past the centerline.


2. If any part of a player's hand, arm, body, or clothes touches the puck, a palming foul should be called. This is one of many very important rules.


3. The air hockey puck may be touched with any part of the mallet but the bottom surface.


4. The puck can't be topped by lifting the mallet and placing it on the top of the puck to slow or stop it while the puck is in play on the air hockey table. This can't be done at any time, either before a serve or during play. Any violation of this or other rules constitutes a foul. However, using the mallet to bring an airborne puck to the table or toward the opponent's goal is not considered a topping violation no matter which side or edge of the puck is contacted.


5. Only one puck can be in play at a given moment.


6. A player may use only one air hockey mallet on the playing surface at one time. A violation of this rule or other rules results in a foul. Players may choose how to hold the one air hockey mallet.


7. When the puck enters a player's goal, the puck must drop and remain in the goal in order for the goal to count. The player's opponent receives one point for a goal scored, unless the offensive player committed a foul-breaking the rules-during or prior to making the shot.


8. A player has seven (7) seconds to make a shot that crosses the centerline of the air hockey table. The rules state that the seven (7) seconds begin as soon as the puck enters and stays on that player's side of the centerline. A violation of this rule, like other rules, is a foul.


9. When the puck is in contact with any part of the centerline, either air hockey player is entitled to strike the puck.


10. The player who is scored upon receives possession of the puck for the next serve.


11. Rules state that when a player is scored upon, he/she has 10 seconds to remove the air hockey puck from the goal and place it in play. The 10 seconds start as soon as the puck has fallen entirely through the goal and is available for the player to place into play. This rule is suspended during a time-out.


12. A player may hand serve the puck (use his or her hand to set the puck in front of his or her mallet) only after he or she has been scored upon.


13. Rules entitle each player to take one timeout per game. The timeout may be no longer than 10 seconds.


14. A player may use his/her timeout only when the air hockey puck is in his/her possession or not in play.


15. A player must make a clear indication of a timeout so that the opponent understands the other player's intention.


16. The first player who scores seven (7) goals is the winner.


17. After each game is complete, players change table sides.



The Cowshed Air Hockey Tables


Thank you for reading my guide. If you foundit to be informative or helpful, Please click the "YES" button below, your vote is appreciated.

Paypal steal your money

AS A SELLER ON EBAY I THOUGHT PAYPAL WOULD BE THE BEST OPTION, WASNT I WRONG THEY ALWAYS SIDE WITH THE BUYER IVE FOUND ON ALL OCCASIONS AND THE REFUND THE MONEY FROM YOUR ACCOUNT BACK TO THE BUYER AT ALL COSTS.ONE OCCASION I SENT AN ITEM WHICH WAS SIGNED FOR, THE BUYER SAID HE HADNT SIGNED FOR IT, SOMEONE ELSE MUST HAVE,LOW AND BEHOLD A DISPUTE WAS OPENED AND EVENTHOUGH I PROOVED TO PAYPAL I HAD SENT THE ITEM AND THE TRACK AND TRACE SHOWED IT HAD BEEN RECEIVED STILL PAYPAL REFUNDED THE BUYER LEAVING ME OUT OF POCKET AND DOWN BY AN ITEM, NOT IMPRESSED.OTHER OCCASION WHEN I PAID 260 FOR A STEREO AND DIDNT RECEIVE THE ITEM, A MOMENT OF MADNESS ON MY BEHALF THE SELLER WAS A 0 FEEDBACK CROOK, I RECEIVED BACK 105 AFTER I INITIATED A DISPUTE, PAYPAL THEN INFORMED ME THAT THEY WOULD TRY TO RECLAIM THE REST OF THE MONEY IF THE SELLER WAS TO RESELL ON EBAY, NOT LIKELY EH, THE NEXT TIME 14 DAYS LATER I LOOK AT THE DISPUTE, PAYPAL HAD CLOSED IT. WELL THANKS THEY HAD THE SELLERS DETAILS WHY COULDNT THEY HAVE REVERSED THE PAYMENT THAT TIME??I RARELY SELL ON EBAY NOW THESE DAYS BECAUSE OF IT AND IF I AM TO START AGAIN WILL CERTAINLY NOT USE PAYPAL AGAIN, EBAY LISTING FEES ARE ENOUGH WITHOUT GIVING THEM MORE OF MY MONEY TO PAYPAL TOO, WHICH IS OWNED BY EBAY, AND THE FEES PAYPAL RECEIVE, DO ME NO GOOD WHEN I NEED HELP, PAYPAL IS USELESS WITH A CAPITAL U.ANOTHER EXAMPLE I SENT A SEALED INK CARTRIDGE TO A BUYER WHO OPENED A DISPUTE THAT THE ITEM WAS NOT AS DESCRIBED,HOW THEY WORKED THAT ONE OUT I DONT KNOW, I PHONED PAYPAL AFTER A DISPUTE WAS OPENED THEY SAID THIS OFTENHAPPENS WHEN BASICALLY SOMEONE BUYS SOMETHING THEN DECIDES THAT THEY DONT THEN WANT IT,SO A WAY TO GET THEIR MONEY BACK , ANNOYED AT THE FEES I HAD PAID FOR THE SALE I AGREED THAT IF THEY SENT BACK THE ITEM THAT I WOULD REFUND IT UPON RECEIPT, PAYPAL TOLD THE BUYER TO SEND IT BACK RECORDED, FAIR ENOUGH.A WEEK OR SO LATER I SIGNED FOR AN ITEM WHEN I OPENED IT IT WAS NOT THE ORIGINAL ITEM I HAD SENT THE BUYER I IMMEDIATLY CONTACED PAYPAL, WHO TOLD ME THAT VIA THE TRACK AND TRACE THEY COULD SEE I HAD RECEIVED BACK THE ITEM AND THEY REFUNDED THE BUYER, I WAS LIVID, I LOST OUT ON MY ITEM AND MY MONEY ONCE AGAIN, JUST BY PAYPAL BACKING THE BUYER AT ALL COSTS, THE FACT THAT I HAD 99%FEEDBACK ON OVER 1000 ITEMS DIDNT MATTER AND THE BUYER HAD A RATING OF AROUND 60%ON 30 ITEMS, BEWARE ALL SELLERS PAYPAL ARE CROOKS THEY BACK BUYERS AT ALL COSTS IF YOU USE THEM YOU WILL LOOSE MONEY AT SOME POINT GUARANTEED.

Table Football - Official Rules

There have always been a lot of arguments about the rules of table football, in the old days each pub or cafe had its own house rules, and even recently different table types and national associations had their own sets of rules.


All this has now changed, as the International Table-Soccer Federation has brought rulemakers from all major traditions together to formulate a universal set of Official Rules of the game, which have been adopted worldwide, and on all types of table, in 2007. These run to a total of 17 pages, and can be found at:


http://www.table-soccer.org/rules


The following is a simplified set of rules, based on the ITSF rules, which should cover play in non-official circumstances, e.g. at home, school/college, pub/club or workplaces. For official tournaments players should familiarise themselves with the official rule book.




Basic Foosball Rules


1 No Spinning it is a spin if the rod rotates more than 360

Thursday, August 5, 2010

THE 10 BEST

This guide is actually a continuation of the related guide I have here on ebay entitled: ARE CELL PHONES DANGEROUS TO YOU

Tiffany Necklaces Bracelets etc.. Ebay Good or NOT?????

Tiffany Necklaces come in all shape and forms here on ebay


Do You know what your buying?????


Well i didnt when i purchased from a power seller here on ebay and i found it wasnt all it cracked up to be


So what can You do??


Tiffany brand new is Far to expensive!! Ebay you dont know what you are getting???


How about a Prefered online supplier who has brilliant service and great products based in the UK but ship worldwide


Well i found them i was going through google and there great and sell loads of other stuff too


Its PVCKING.CO.UK Dont forget the 3 w's in front as i cant put them on here as it wont let me


I and many more have ordered and been Very happy


Hope this helps

SOME LIGHTER OVERHAUL TIPS

1-YOU CAN SWAP OVER A LOT OF THE RONSON LIGHTER TOPS IE STANDARD WITH WHIRLWIND-


2-KEEP THAT WD40 HANDY-AMAZING FOR FREEING MOVEMENTS


3-YOU HAVE THAT BADLY ENAMELED LIGHTER-ACETONE WILL TAKE ITALL OFFOFF VERY WELL(MUST BE THE REAL MACOY NOT SUBSTITUTE)-SAVES SCRATCH MARKS ON LIGHTER!!


4-SWAP RONSON VALVES-TWO BASIC TYPES-YOU HAVE THIS VERY NICE PREMIER FANTASTIC BODY BUT FAULTY VALVE-TAKE ONE FROM A COMET OR A RONSON TABLE LIGHTER AND REPLACE-EVEN THE 83600 ELECTRNIC RANGE ALL TAKE SAME BASE VALVES-THIS ALSO APLIES TO THE BURNER VALVES


5-OF COURSE NEVER STORE LIGHTERS WITH FLINTS STILL IN -WE ALL KNOW BUT DO THIS!!!


6-YOU HAVE A GAS/FLINT LTR -NOT ELECTRONIC-AND NO GAS COMMING THRU-WARM BASE UP IN HOT WATER -SUPRISE!!REPEAT DO NOT TRY WITH PIETZO OR OTHER ELECTRONIC LIGHTER


7-NEVER DRILL A GAS LIGHTER TO TAKE JAMMED FLINT OUT-(YOU WILL HIT THE TANK -BECAUSE OF THE ANGLE)-TAP FOM TOP WITH TINY JEWELERS SCREWDRIVER


8-GETTING A BAD SPARK FROM WORN FLINTWHEEL-TRY ONE OF YOUR OLD MOULDY FLINTS-ONE ALWAYS HAS SOME AROUND-


9-WHEN BUYING-ALWAYS ASK IF WORKING-OVERWISE (BIT LIKE BUYING A CAR WITHOUT AN ENGINE)-SUPRISED HOW DIFICULT IT IS FOR SOME TO SOURCE OUT WHERE TO BUY GAS-THIS BUSINESS ABOUTBEING A NON SMOOKER -OR HAVE NO GAS-THEN SELLING A 50 LTR -!!!


10-WHEN BUYING OUTSIDE EC REMEMBER CUSTOMS WILL HIT YOU FOR DUTY-YESTERDAY I PAID 14 FOR A BATCH VALUE $60 FROM STATES-YOU EVEN HAVE TO PICK UP FROM POST OFFICE YOUSELF-


REGARDS BARRIE-ALL COMMON SENSE


Fake Links of London Sweetie Bracelet

I was thrilled when i recently purchased my LL sweetie bracelet only to find upon taking it to the shop that it was a fake.


I had my suspicions when i opened the parcel to find the bracelet was wrapped in plastic packaging which i thought was quite odd, after much speculation i took it to the Links of London store within Selfridges manchester and the kind lady took one look at it and confirmed my suspicions. The points to look out for are:


1) the engraving on the fake LL sweetie bracelets are quite faint, the real ones are boldly engraved


2) on either the left or right side of the clasp normally two rings in, there should be a stamp/hallmark


3) the weight of the fakes are much heavier than the real ones and they have a tinny sound if shaken


4) No real sweetie bracelet is sold with a charm already attached apart from the childrensversion.All charms are sold separelty and retail at 40


5)If bought from a LLstore will be packaged with a black bow


6) The silver on the fakes is poor quality and the colour will start diminishing after a few weeks in some cases turning black



I hope the above points will help you save your hardearned cash from being spent on a fake item. I paid 65 for mine but i felt much more satisfied going tothe store and spending an extra 30 on the real thing(plus i really wanted the cute little box to show off to my friends)


Many thanks and good luck xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Guide to identify

I love experimenting with Mac pigments ,they are such fab product,here is a little info to help you avoiding the pitfalls of buying counterfeit Mac pigments.Sadly MAC PIGMENTS are the most counterfeited MAC product!Below is a photo of my fav shade MAC Pigment"Dark Soul"
Authentic Mac pigments retail for around 15 each so as ask yourself how can someone afford to sell 20 brand new pigments for 49?Here some info : MAC doesn't sell wholesale to distributorsIn the UK a MAC Pro card gives a maximum discount of 35% pigments are 9.52 each a Staff Discount card gives 60% discount - pigments cost 5.87 each ,so if you see them sold very cheaply your alarm bells should be ringing loud and clear.I would be wary of buying from anyone who has lots of "very rare" or "hard to find"pigments ask yourself how did they acquire these "rare pigments"?

Buying a Landrover Discovery? - What to look for!

Having seen many poor Landrover Discoveries on Ebay lately i decided to enlighten buyers with a quick checklist on exactly where to look for the all too common problems associated with these vehicles.It might look tidy and clean on the outside but underneath may be a different story!Mechanically a landrover is usually cheap to maintain or repair but bodywise, its a different story with many discoveries suffering from serious hidden corrosion in many places. The common places (and expensive to repair) are the sills, wheel arches, inner wings, boot floor and rear crossmember. Here is a quick rundown on the problem areas.SILLS:- It takes but a few minutes to inspect the sills, ensure they are firm and not holed. A light tap with a small hammer will let you know the condition. Check the condition along the seam where inner meets outer sill, This should be straight and not bubbled out, a sure sign of impending replacement needed. There should be no corrosion around the base of the door pillars at the front and middle and likewise where the baseplate meets and fits under the sill. There is a drainhole at the base of the pillars, pull the plastic plug out and see if its full of rust or mud. The middle pillar also has the seatbelt mount behind it on the floor, corrosion in this area of sill, pillar or floor will be an MOT failure.INNER WINGS:- Very common to find these holed or non-existant in places. They should be sound and rust free and i've had many pass an MOT with corrosion and likewise fail, its the MOT inspectors discretion here but still looks unsightly if holed. Below the brake servo where the inner wing meets the bulkhead is a common rust-trap and an MOT failure, also awkward to repair and usually ends up in a new innerwing being fitted along with a bulkhead repair. Parts of the brake pipe system are supported by clips mounted on the wings, also the battery tray and surrounding areas should be sound, last thing you want is to hit a bump and end up flattening your battery....literally!REAR WHEEL ARCHES:- Open the rear doors (5-door only) and inspect the top of the arch, this should be sound as its within 12" of a seatbelt mount and will fail if rusty or holed. The bottom is usually hidden behind the plastic trim and is a common rust trap area. Checking from inside the wheelarch will give a fair indication of condition, likewise from underneath when inspecting the sills. There is a splash panel at the bottom front of the arch, this also covers the rear of the sill and is very commonly holed or in extreme cases missing. The rear of the arch also has the mudflap brackets bolted onto it and frequently rots there too, leaving not only a loose mudflap bracket but also an insecure body side panel. looking around the inner, lower edge of the arch where above where the suspension spring is, corrosion here usually means the rear floor has started to rot and this is a potentially expensive repair often requiring patching or in worst cases a new arch and floor panel.3-DOOR:- The rear of the sill is hidden behind the body panel and is a serious problem area. Signs of corrosion on the bottom of the body panel are a sure sign of serious rot inside. There is no cheap solution to repair this, i've seen some with the panel cut away and then chequer plate covering it, the other way is to unstitch the panel from the middle pillar, pull the panel out and replace the sill that way. Either way is a lot of work and not a cheap fix.FRONT PANEL:- Corrosion here is usually the headlight boxes and front chassis mounts, its common for the headlight boxes to have no bottom and the chassis mounts to be totally gone, leaving a couple of rubber bushes and bolts showing. MOT failure here if this is the case!REAR BODY:- The rear body panel beneath the rear bumper has two body mounts, these frequently rot out, leaving no means of supporting the rear body. The chassis crossmember is also a common fault, more so on earlier models. Open the rear door and inspect the surrounding, common problems are at the top on both sides where the join between roof and pillars is, at the bottom on both corners and along the leading edge where the bootfloor starts. Corrosion here has been the end of many discoveries! BOOT FLOOR:- If corroded, then this is the biggest job to replace in my opinion. Around 150 spot welds that need removing to get the panel out, less if corrosion is severe. Care needs to be taken when drilling over the fuel tank as its very close to the floor and a careless drill bit will punture it. The floor has 3 supporting bars, one of which has the rear flexi brake pipe attatched so care needed when exposing this area. Often the surrounding floor panels need repairing as the rot spreads, theres a few sellers on Ebay supplying formed metal to replace these parts but they will require the floor being cut and then welding in before refitting the floor. In serious cases a floor repair panel or floor and arch panel will be needed. Expensive items though so many Discoveries get patched up here. A good tip when taking the floor out is to clean and paint the top edges of the chassis and also changing the much neglected primary fuel filter, located in front of the fuel tank, on the chassis itself. Many Landrover parts suppliers forget there are TWO main fuel filters on the discovery, you buy the filter kit and get ONE! ITs a common find to see this missing and a joint pipe replacing it as its so often neglected that its impossible to change and needs the entire housing replaced, hence the pipe being fitted.Above are the common areas of rot, most you will not see if you dont look for it. Ive bought a few discoveries lately, sold with bodywork in "good condition", with MOT and you would think Fred Flintstone owned it!, i can picture the feet on the tarmac now hehe. Terminally rotten thoguh as its beyond economical repair so only good for parts. The amazing thing is the previous owner says he used it daily.....frightening!!All too many have excellent bodywork due to them having aluminium body panels, a wash and polish brings them up well and the prospective buyer is dazzled with the stunning looks. If you dont look underneath, then there is no-one but yourself to blame if its a rot-box.A rough indication on parts

Fraud memory sellers like bobob_uk

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/bobob_uk/


Sells unbrandedchinese memory as quality graded memory.


bobob_uk is a chinese seller despite having a London Office.


He has been reported to ebay and paypal repeatedly, including myself, with evidence of these frauds, but continues to be allowed to sell fake items fraudulently.


See here for just the last 30 days of his antics reported by buyers who know enough to test. His frauds go back farfurther.


see www dot toolhaus dot org/cgi-bin/negs?/user=bobob_uk


***Note


Ebay appears to be regularly blocking access to this sellers feedback from toolhaus. This would appear to be furtherevidence of Ebay's complicity in this sellers frauds.


Superbikes 1970s Benelli, Kawasaki, BMW, Honda etc

Superbikes 1970s


This is one of many illustrated classic motorcycle guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic 1970's motorcycle art featured in this guide please click here.


This guide features several classic motor cycles of the 1970s.


Benelli 750 SEI


The Benelli 750 Sei was launched in 1975. With smart styling, Italian racing red paintwork and the unique attraction of its six-cylinder engine, emphasized by an array of gleaming chromed exhaust pipes, the Sei looked to be a world beater. Sadly its engine turned out to be softly tuned and the bike was no faster than Honda's CB750-four of six years earlier. On the plus side the Sei was supremely smooth and comfortable and was commendably narrow for a six. Its air-cooled 12-valve SOHC transverse six engine produced 71bhp @ 8,900rpm and gave a top speed of 118mph (189kph).


BMW R90/S


The introduction of the /5 series in 1969 marked a new era for BMW with new machines, such as the R75, marking a radical departure from previous BMW practice. Bright colours, a splash of chrome, light frames and resolute engines all added up to quick, good handling machines that retained the reliability and quality of the previous models. In 1974, to keep pace with the competition, the R90/S was introduced. Its 900cc engine fed 9.5:1 pistons through 38mm Dell'Orto pumper carbs and it used a new five-speed transmission to propel its 500 pounds (wet) through a quarter-mile in a mere 13 seconds.


Ducati 750 Sport


Ducati had been building single-cylinder bikes with shaft driven camshafts for fifteen years when they decided to move into the bigger bike market. The 750GT, announced to an impressed public in September 1970, was effectively two singles mounted in a 90 degree V, a layout that was to become a Ducati trademark. There were plenty of other V-twins around, but the Ducati was different from all of them. Moto Guzzi's transverse vees (Le Mans apart) were more touring biased and Harley-Davidson's twins, although longitudinal like Ducati's, were worlds apart in terms of character and intended use.


Honda CB750


In 1969, Honda changed the face of motorcycling forever with the CB 750. The CB750 Four offered a combination of hardware never before seen on a single machine. For the first time, four cylinder power and smoothness were joined by a five-speed gearbox, an electric starter and a front disc brake (the first ever on a street machine), and all at a reasonable price. The CB750 was the firm's first attempt at a big bike and it set new standards for performance, practicality and reliability in the big bike class - the era of the production superbike had begun.


Kawasaki 750 H2


In 1969, Kawasaki launched the Mach 3, a 500cc no-holds-barred speedster with exceptional performance, it was capable of a quarter-mile run in under 13 seconds and a maximum 120mph (193kph), flat-out. When therefore, they showed the seven-fifty version (Mach 4) in early 1972, the motorcycling world gasped in disbelief. Crammed into the lightest motorcycle in its class was the most bristly engine ever seen from Japan. There were three 250cc air-cooled cylinders sitting side-by-side across the frame with a claimed output of 74bhp at 6,500rpm. A surprising example of the early seventies superbike.


Laverda Jota


Laverda's reputation as a builder of classic superbikes began with an 80bhp machine in 1972. A twin ohc 1000cc triple powered it to 125mph (201kph) and not only was it faster than the Japanese superbikes, it had handling to match. Known as the 3C, it spawned the UK only, Jota (developed by Laverda importer Roger Slater), the 1200cc Mirage and the later more civilised 120-degree crank versions. Released in 1976, the Jota was just about the fastest production machine of the day. Capable of almost 140mph (225kph) and coupled with well proportioned, yet racy lines, it is no wonder the Jota soon became a motorcycling status symbol.


Moto Guzzi 750S


The Moto Guzzi 750 S was one of the most eye-catching machines of its era. Finished in all black with violent red, orange or green flashes across the tank and side panels, it used the familiar Moto Guzzi 748cc V-twin ohv engine mounted in a twin-cradle frame. Producing 53bhp @ 6300rpm, top speed of this highly desirable superbike was 123mph (199kph). By the seventies handling was an Italian speciality. Firms such as Moto Guzzi were showing the Japanese that there was more to motorcycle design than simply putting a potent engine between two wheels.


MV Agusta 750S America


The name MV-Agusta is a legend in motorcycling, for the company from Gallarate in northern Italy won no fewer than 37 World Championships and over 100 National titles. They produced their first sporty four-cylinder road bike in 1971, which used the shaft drive of their touring 600 but with increased capacity and compression. The 750 S America was produced in 1975 and, as its name suggests, was aimed purely at the American market. It was finished in standard trim. Extras available included gold magnesium alloy wheels, a disc rear brake and full fairing.


Norton Commando 850


The 850 Commando was launched in 1973 and this was to be the final incarnation of Norton's classic vertical twin. The 828cc engine was a solid design although by now was approaching thirty years of age and consequently competing with more sophisticated Japanese four-cylinder power, was a difficult taks. Power output had risen to 60bhp @ 6000rpm but there was no significant improvement in performance over the 750, with a top speed of 115mph (185kph). Nevertheless, the 850 Commando found a loyal following for those motorcyclists looking for torque and generally unfussed cruising.


Suzuki GS750

Introduced towards the end of 1976, the GS 750 was Suzuki's first large capacity four-stroke motorcycle. Needing something special to replace the three-cylinder two-stroke GT750, which had become a victim of rough emission control regulations in America, the GS750 proved to be not only the fastest seven-fifty on the market but the most compact and best mannered big bike to appear from Japan to date. The company realised that what was needed in the 750 class was a machine with superior roadholding and manageability as well as more power and the GS750 had all of these attributes.


Triumph Trident T150

The Triumph Trident, when released in 1968, made a genuine impact on the motorcycling world. It was fast, storming up to 100mph (160kph) quicker than the competition and unlike some other "superbikes", it also handled well. The sound of its three-cylinder engine howling its way up to 8000rpm was unforgettable. It is sad that Triumph's industrial troubles kept development of the Trident to a minimum. The T150 ran until 1975, with various styling upgrades until the final Trident, the T160, appeared in 1975. Potentially a great machine, it was sadly let down only by sloppy production quality and faded from the scene after 1976.


Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

Cmos CCTV Systems being sold on Ebay June '09

Hi, we have several guides on ebay with reference to choosing a suitable CCTV system for Home or Business use. This guide is an attendum to those guides as a result of numerous listings which have started appearing on Ebay.co.uk and Ebay.ie for 4 camera complete systems which are actually cmos based.Firstly - there are numerous professional CCTV companies with good customer support and experience who sell on ebay - this guide is strictly a warning about the CMOS type systems which have stated to appear - none of which appear to be being sold by any CCTV seller but mainly by sellers whose main product range has nothing to do with CCTV.

Triumph Motorcycle - Speed Twin, Tiger 100, Club, 110

Triumph Motorcycles


This is one of many illustrated classic motorcycle guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic Triumph motorcycle art featured in this guide please click here.


The first all-Triumph motor cycles were made in Coventry as early as 1904. Following a number of notable models, not least the 1925 494cc side-valve Model P with its absurdly low selling price of 42, it was in 1937 that Triumph finally took the motor cycling world by storm with the Speed Twin. This guide details six of Triumph's best loved models from the "classic" post-war period.


Triumph Speed Twin


The Triumph Speed Twin was probably the best known motor cycle of the immediate post-war period. Strikingly good looking and built to a high standard, it was chosen as the mount for the London Police. A vertical-twin layout, it featured an all-iron block and head. Light and simple, the engine was virtually a single with two pistons travelling in unison to give even firing intervals and impelled by a 360 degree crankshaft. over output was approximately 25bhp at 5500rpm, which was enough to power the bike at up to 85mph.


Triumph Thunderbird


Born out of demand from mainly their American customers, Triumph enlarged the Speed Twin in 1946 by 150cc and called it the Thunderbird. Both bore and stroke increased from 63 x 80mm to a nearer "Square" dimension of 71 x 82mm, giving 649cc and a power output of 34bhp @6300rpm. The 8hp advantage over the 500 produced a noticeable surge of mid-range torque and a road performance superior to the Tiger 100.


Triumph Trophy


Triumph on-or-off road bike, the Trophy was first listed in 1949. A combination of the Tiger 100 and Grand Prix detuned to one carburettor, and running on a compression ratio of 6:1, the engine was carried in a specially shortened high-clearance frame with a siamesed exhaust system tucked above the primary case and ending in a lightweight silencer. Light and manoeuvrable, the Trophy was equipped with a detachable lighting set making it a practical all-rounder for everyday use and weekend sport.


Triumph Tiger Cub


Derived from the Terrier, the Tiger Cub came into the post-war world in 1954. Not merely a sports version of the 150, the 199cc Triumph obtained much of its extra speed from its extra capacity. An inclined overhead-valve single with unit construction for a four-speed gearbox driven by a non-adjustable chain, the Cub had an oval timing-side casting and a very neat appearance. It was equipped at first with plunger rear springing, later with pivot-fork type. An excellent performer, top speed was 68mph and with plenty of acceleration, it could outpace most two strokes of comparable size.


Triumph Tiger 110


In the immediate post-war market Triumph got going with the Speed Twin and the Tiger 100 twins and although these were perfectly acceptable to the British, the Americans were soon demanding more performance. Edward Turner obliged with the 649cc Thunderbird and then later evolved from a high-performance edition which he named the Tiger 110. Engine changes included the beefed-up crankshaft, larger inlet valves and a compression ratio of 8.5:1. The T110 in Britain found its niche in production-machine racing, aquitting itself well at Thruxton in 1955.


Triumph Tiger 100


The high performance version of the Speed Twin, the Tiger 100 returned post-war in 1946. Changes were light, and mainly concerned the position of the dynamo, now at the front of the block and a reduction in the level of external oil piping. As before it had an eight-stud fixing for the cylinder block and polished flywheels and connecting rods. Considered as one of the handsomest Triumphs of all, the T100 had a top speed well in excess of 90mph. With the exception of the Vincent Rapide, which had twice the capacity, it represented the fastest standard tourer available.


Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

Buses In Britain 1960s Leyland AEC Routemaster Daimler

Buses In Britain 1960s


This is one of many illustrated classic bus guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic British Bus art featured in this guide please click here.


This guide features a number of classic British buses from the 1960s.


AEC Regent V ( East Kent )


Based in Canterbury, East Kent covered a wide area of Kent, bounded by the sea on three sides and fellow BET company, Maidstone and District, to the west. The AEC Regent 5 LD3RA double-decker entered the East Kent fleet in 1958. The MkV Regent had the largest number of options and variations of any Regent produced. There were three different engines available together with monocontrol and synchromesh gearboxes, air pressure and triple vacuum servo-assisted braking.


AEC Routemaster ( BEA )


The advent of AEC's Routemaster vehicle was probably the greatest step forward in bus design not only in London Transport's history but for the bus world in general. In 1966 B.E.A. ( British European Airways ) took delivery of 65 RMF type Routemasters fitted with 27ft 6in bodies for operation on the Airport service from Gloucester Road to Heathrow. These had provision for the luggage to be carried in a two-wheeler trailer towed by the bus.


BMMO D9 ( Midland Red )


Midland Red were interested in developing a 30ft long high capacity double-decker as far back as 1951, but it was not until 1956 that such vehicles were approved. The 30ft D9 prototype appeared in 1958, a remarkable advanced integral 72-seat machine fitted with the new BMMO KL 10.5-litre engine coupled to an electrically controlled self-changing gearbox. Production vehicles were introduced in 1960, and over the next six years a total of 345 examples had entered service.


Bristol Lodekka ( Hants

How to Design a Custom eBay store! (FULL TUTORIAL)

I'm sure a lot of you have seen those great eBay stores, with custom designs, and thought, how the hell did they do that? I bet you've done a search for it, and onl found a bunch of sites of people trying to get hundreds of from you in return for a design. Are you one of those people who can design a store, but don't know how to do the code? Well this guide is for you! I am going to supply you with step by step information on how to create your very own custom store design.PLEASE BE SURE TO ADD A "YES" HELPFULNESS VOTE IF YOU READ THIS GUIDE! I HAVE WORKED HARD TO MAKE THIS TO HELP PEOPLE LEARN HOW TO MAKE AMAZING EBAY STORES/SHOPS.Firstly, you will need an eBay store active, in which you have full access to. You will also need some kind of server where you can host a .CSS file in which ebay can load for the colours. If you do not have webspace, please feel free to email me at ash.pearson1@gmail.com or send me a message on ebay, and I will supply you with some free webspace to host your .CSS file and images if you so wish.Now lets start with Setting up your eBay store from the start. If you have already done this, please scroll down to our custom design section and read on from there to begin your custom designing.Firstly, check out http://pages.ebay.com/storefronts/bestinstores.html for some ideas on how to create a nice looking store.(Copy and paste the link into your browser in a new tab or window)Now, once your eBay store is all set up, with the "Quick Store Setup" option, we will begin to Manage our store. You can do this by logging into your ebay summary, scrolling down and clicking "Manage my Store" on the left navigation bar.Now you will find yourself on the page in which you will edit your store, and add features. The first thing you will want to do is add some categories to your store. You are allowed to create up to 300 different store categories for your new eBay store, so don't worry about making too many. You can add as many categories and sub categories as you want. You can create categories by clicking "Store Caegories" on the left navigation.You can now click the Add Category button and create your category, giving it an appropriate name. You can create 5 categories at a time.Once you have made your 5 categories, you can add more or click a particular category link to access that category and create sub-categories inside it. This is used on my own store.Example: Servants of the Betrayer Loot Cards Epic Cards Rare Cards Uncommon Cards Hunt for Illidan Loot Cards Epic Cards etc etc.Once you have created all your categories, you can move onto the next step. Don't worry if you can't think of a particular one. You can always come back later and add/remove categories.DISPLAY SETTINGSYou are now going to want to edit your Display Settings.The Display Settings allow you to Add a title to your Store, view your Store URL, or change it, make changes to your Store Logo, and Add/Edit your Store Description.Store Name: Give your Store a good name which includes what you sell. Such As World of Warcraft TCG - loot cards, spectral tiger etc.Store Logo: Choose a logo from your PC, enter a URL, or choose a basic eBay one for your store. Size must be 310x90 pixels.Store Description: Don't put something like "Welcome to our store, enjoy your visit". Be abrupt, explain what you sell and use keywords for what items you sell as this will help with your Search Engine Placement on sites like Google, Yahoo and loads more. This could bring you potential customers to all of your items on a huge scale if the right keywords are mentioned.THEME AND DISPLAYThe Theme and Display section allows you to edit your store theme, edit Left Navigation Bar settings, and make changes to the Store Header Display. It also allows you to change the way items are listed on your storefront.Store Theme: Choose a theme from eBay. If you are planning on customising a theme for later, and creating a custom theme, this section doesn't really matter. Just choose something that looks nice, and matches the colours of your items in some way.Left Nav Bar Settings: Choose to show your Search Box, Choose which categories to show, and Choose to show Store Pages and Buyer Display options.Store Header Display: Turn the Store Page Header on. (Turn this off if you are going to create a custom store. We will be making our own), and choose which type of eBay header displays. You can only change this with a premium store.Item Display: Choose whether to show your items on your store as a list, or in a Gallery View. I recommend gallery view, as it looks like an online store, and looks nicer.PROMOTION BOXESPromotion Boxes allow you to place small pieces of information on your store in different places. These could include a small piece of information about items on Sale, or a great postage offer you currently have going. You can also use Promotion Boxes to create slideshows of items which you are currently selling, and create Countdown Timers for items which are ending soonest. The Options are all pretty self explanatory.CUSTOM PAGES (THIS IS THE START OF THE CUSTOM DESIGN!)When you create your store, you will end up with a nice looking storefront, with nice colours. But then when you see other peoples shops, and they have created a fully self designed store, with header display, flash and loads more, you really wish you could do it. There are thousands of you out there who can design the store you want, but don't know how to embed it into ebay. Well this is how you do it my friends.Now all sections will assume you have HTML code ready, including images, your design, and a .CSS FILE. If you do not have a CSS file, please scroll down to that section and read about that, because it is required to create a decent storefront.Now, we will start with the Header.Once you have your Header image uploaded to your file server, or a site such as Photobucket, Imageshack, or Tinypic, and have your HTML code ready, go to Manage My Store

Is BT's interpretation of the word 'unlimited' legal?

WARNING ABOUT - VAN TRADER UK - vantraderuk

They do not have the 5000 vehicles they claim to have and I don't even think they have a garage.


- Vehicles listed are not available


- Vehicles are located all over the uk


- They buy the vans once they have your money


- Pictures of the vehicles do not represent the actual vehicle you buy

FOOT GAUGE 8- L@@K

VERBAUDET SELL FOOT GAUGES FOR 8.00 P

BEGINNERS GUIDE TO SELLING CLOTHING/TEXTILES

This is a quick guide to help you stand out from the hundreds of thousands of items on ebay, and to boost your sales. There are five areas you need to address when selling any item of clothing on ebay. Although this guide is mainly for clothing, it can relate to almost all items sold on ebay.1. A TRAFFIC GRABBING TITLE2. GOOD ITEM DETAILS3. DECENT PHOTOGRAPHY4. DE-CLUTTER YOUR LISTING5. HONESTY1. THE TITLEA huge mistake new sellers make when listing is to use decribing words or what they think are attention grabbing words like 'L@@K' or 'SEXY' or 'BARGAIN' or punctuation. Nobody searches for these terms, and punctuation is a waste of space. Celebrity names are also usually a waste of space. You need to make sure that your listing has as many search engine submitted words as possible to make sure that your item comes up in any many searches as possible. In your title all you need is : Condition, Fabric, Brand, Size (In numbers and letter), Colour. If you have space, you may now put season, item style, occasion and patterns if there are any. Remember you only have 55 characters to work with. For example if you are selling an old lipsy dress, you can say 'LIPSY CHIFFON BLUE MINI DRESS SIZE 10 M LAYERED SUMMER'. This is better than 'Only worn once stunning lipsy dress size 10 or medium'. The second example only conatins three popular searches '10' and 'lipsy' and 'dress', whereas every word in the first example is a popular keyword.Just think about what you search for when looking for items. Do you search for exclamation marks or 'stunning' or 'fantastic'? No, You don't. 2. A great description-Make sure you use the drop down menus and fill them up with information. This is also submitted to the search engines so you can grab even more traffic by filling these in correctly. -Use bullet points wherever possible as most people are just skimming and don't want to read a 1000 word essay on your old jeans. All you need in the description is: 'Welcome to my auction', A quick snappy description, what the item will go well with, and NEVER FORGET TO SAY 'have a look at my other items'. Most people forget to explore buyers items, and this little reminder could double your traffic. 3. Decent photographyThis is where most new buyers lose sales. The biggest mistakes are cluttered backgrounds and blurred photographs. You wouldn't buy an item you can't see, or one from a person with cigarette butts scattered around next to the item (it's been done).Take the photo on a plain background. Avoid using flash for cd's, dvd's, and shiny/sequinned clothing, and instead use natural lighting. This is because the flash usually obscures and blurs the picture on these items. With smaller items, you can use a sheet of white paper, but for larger clothing items you can use a plain bedsheet or take a photo against a wall.Although it is usually best to use a model as it gives a better idea of the clothing, if your model is out of shape and the clothing sheer, revealing or tight, it won't make people want to buy it. Just use your judgement. If you think it looks good, most people will too, but if it's showing lumps and bumps, take a photo of the item laid flat.4. DE-CLUTTER- You need a Clean, clear layout. Resist the urge to use silly layouts
with flashing lights, slides and music. These take ages to load and not only are they
offputting, they also make you look like an inexperienced, unreliable
seller and people will be less trusting of you. Black text on a white background is best.5. HONESTY- Resist the urge to describe a used item as 'new without tags', as you will get caught out, and recieve bad feedback- Try not to keyword spam i.e. saying an item is from topshop when it isn't. Not only will your buyer be annoyed when they recieve it, but ebay will give you a violation and reduce your visibility in the searches.I hope this guide helped you get started. If so, please remember to give me a thumbs up.

How to confirm Royal Worcester is real or not!

Porcelain marks or manufacturers marks not only tell you who made what and when, but these also indication to the standard of the piece as well. These are known as FIRST QUALITY and SECOND QUALITY.


IFYOU FIND THIS USEFUL PLEASEVOTE YES BELOW TO MAKE THIS VISIBLE TO OTHERS


FIRST QUALITYThis is when a piece is of best quality and often indicated by a complete Porcelain mark or manufacturers mark.


SECOND QUALITYThis is a factory second and often sold as such by factory shops. Manufacturers always indicate these items by marking, scratching or disfiguring the Porcelain marks.


Wedgwood, Royal Albert, Paragon, Doulton, Worcester all indicate seconds by grinding out part of the mark. I have come across all these and it is pretty obvious from first glance that this was deliberate.


Advise to buyersYou will come across many examples on eBay and my advise is to purchase after examining a clear image of the Porcelain mark or manufacturers mark so you can decide if it is what you want. Remember that a piece of SECOND Quality will not command a premium and a auction that does not show the Porcelain marks will be hard to verify manufacturer, date of manufacture and standard of quality.


Advice to sellersAlways include images of the Porcelain mark or manufacturers mark not only to verify the manufacturer but also to help the buyer to date it and verify its quality. A knowledgeable buyer, if given a choice, will always go for an item with a picture of a manufacturers mark.

Genuine Juicy couture watches

I FIND LIKE WITH ALOT OF STUFF ON EBAY THAT AGAIN YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOUR GETTING


ALL JUICY COUTURE WATCHES COME IN COLOURFULL CASES AND MOST RETAILERS WILL BE ABLE TO TELL YOU THAT THERE ORIGIN IS LA - SO IF YOU SEE MADE IN CHINA YOU KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT WHICH IS FINE AS LONG AS YOUR NOT PAYING OVER THE ODDS FOR IT, I FOUND JUICY WATCHES FROM 49.99 WITH FREE POSTAGE AT A WEBSITE CALLED


PVCKING.CO.UK


CHECK IT OUT ITS WORTH A VISIT AND IS BASED IN THE UK!!!!!!!!

COLCO/MAPLIN LAMA 5 HELICOPTER ....HOW TO GUIDE

READ THIS ONCE YOU HAVE READ THE MANUAL SUPPLIED WITH THE HELICOPTER.


This guide is intended to introduce you to the COLCO LAMA 5 (sold in the UK by MAPLINasLAMA 5)


IT IS ALSO SOLD BY CENTURY IN THE UK, REELY AND CARSON IN GERMANY and probably a load of others ,., however it is not a german or english helicopter .. it is pure chinese and it really is excellent .. some say better than LAMA V4 from ESKY.. which is pretty good.


It will help you run your helicopter efficiently, explain what the parts do and solve most of the problems that are encountered when flying a model


Mostradio control helicopters are not a toys, they require maintenance and care to keep them flying .. just like the real thing. When we talk of maintenance for this helicopter we mean a little bit of oil or grease here and there and replacing parts as they do wear out. This will be covered later.


The Colco LAMA 5 is a simple helicopter easy to fly and simple to maintain, it has a sliding swashplate (low number of parts), twin motor, twin servo, co-axial blade system (4 blade), it is a real 4 channelhelicopter. it comes with a 4 in 1 receiver unit which controls the speed of the motors (ESC), servos and a gyro for stability.


WHEN YOU GET YOUR HELICOPTER ....


The body of the helicopter is tied in to the box with a tie wrap ..... cut or remove this tie wrap before removing the helicopter ... else you will break the tail. It may seem simple .. but yes it has happened once.


A FEW TIPS.

BATTERY .... do not pull the battery or hold the battery by its wires .. when handling always pick the battery up by the body part.. when plugging and unplugging always use the connectors not the wire. The wires on the battery are fragile and will break if not handled properly. If you putevo stick or some other non conductive filler that hardens to cover the battery end of the wires it will help the longevity of the connections.When you slip the battery in to the helicoper always have the wires facing backwards, when you connect it up to the red connector on the helicopter try and wrap it round the landing gear somehow so there is no slack in the wire .. this will stop it from moving around and in fact shifting the centre opf gravity... if you dont the battery has a tendency to move backwards and the heli will tend to move backwards in the air too due to the shifting weight.


BATTERY STATUS LIGHT

... this section refers to the light on the receiver on the helicopter.


WARNING .. if you discharge the battery too much ... it will not recharge ... at about 3 volts per cell the battery cuts out and will not recharge again.


GREEN - OK


RED -battery partially discharged


RED FLASHING - more discharge...


When the helicopter stops lifting ... recharge the battery


NO LIGHT .. either its disconnected or the battery is dead .. has discharged so much that it may be dead! please read warning message at the beginning of this section.


DO NOT LEAVE THE BATTERY ATTACHED TO THE HELICOPTER WHEN NOT IN USE.. it will discharge as it powers the receiver.


If the blades are going round but the helicopter wont lift anymore then you really need to charge the battery.. if you use it for much longer then you may put it in to a state where the light will go off..at which point it may have discharged too much..... see above (NO LIGHT)


Do not leave the battery plugged in to the charger overnight , do not leave the charger plugged intothe mains, always switch off the power when its not charging. The chargers do get hot and they do have a tendency to overheat and fail if they are left powered for excessive periods of time.


BLADES ....

when ever you hit something the blade will get damage... you can still fly with some damage , however if you do lose chunks of blade i do suggest that you change them.CHANGE THEM IN PAIRS. The A blade goes on top , the B blade on the bottom. If you do fly with chunks outyour heli will tend to fly one way or the other .. sometimes unpredictably.


Blades can be broken in mid air .,.... if you execute a rapid turn or change of direction then the blades with crash into eachother .. normally one of the blades comes off worst and it needs to be replaced. This happens because the top blade is on a flexible mount .. and with sudden movement it doesnt adjust its position quickly enough .. the lower blade comes upwards and cuts it or gets cut. One of the secrets to succesful helciopter control is smooth and small action .. make it all very slow and deliberate.. small and constant movements ofthe joystick and all will be well.



HOW TO

NOTE BEFORE PERFORMING ANY REPLACEMENT OF PARTS ALWAYS UNPLUG AND REMOVE THE BATTERY.


REPLACE BLADES - remove the screws and remove the blades. replace the B blades (ON THE BOTTOM) first , make sure you line up the holes properly from blade to rotor head. Screw the blade down lightly until you cannot screw it any more , do not force it, unscrew by one turn, so that your blades are slightly lose on the rotor head. Repeat what youve just done on the A blades(ON THE TOP). The blades need to be slightly loseor else they will cause unpredictable movement whentaking off because they will not extend fullyimmediately.


REPLACE THE CABIN - Remove the 4 screws (2 left/2 right) and remove, to replace reverse procedure


REPLACE THE TAIL - Remove the 2 lower screws under the tail , remove the 2 upper screws abovethe tail. If you have to move the exhaust pipe while doing this dont worry, they tend to be glued on so it can put back in to place if you move it too much. To replace just put the screws back in.


REPLACE THE BATTERY TRAY - remove the 4screws, the battery tray will fall off , to replace reverse the procedure


REPLACE THE SKIDS - Remove the CABIN,Remove theTAIL, cut the tie wrap, that holds the receiver in place, and remove it. Remove the pipe that holds the aerial wire. Push the aerial wire through the holes in the front of the main chassis and unwind it from the chassis, taking care no to damage or cut the wire.Unscrew all 4 screws holding the skids in place. Remove the Receiver from the main chassis. the receiver is held in place with double sided tape, you will need to use new double sided tapeto get the receiver to be held in place properly. Replace the SKIDS withthe 4 screws and replace the receiver. You need to put the battery wire through the oblong hole in the chassis before putting the double sided tape down, The receiver box needs to be as close to thefront bulkhead of the helicopter main body section as possible, there are some wires that will go in between the receiver and body so leave a space. Makesure the receiver is placed vertically. It has a gyro in it that ensures stability so this isimportant. Place a new tie wrap around the receiver and through thefrontchassis and make it tight. Once again ensure that your receiver is straight and vertical. Wind the aerial around the front chassis membermaking sure you put it through 2 of the 3 holes at the front just so it doesnt come loose. Replacethe aerial wire in the pipe. Now replace theTAIL and the CABIN.


REPLACE THE FLY BAR- Unclip the double hole tie bars from the rotor head, do this by putting a small screwdriver behind them and pushing outwards. Now put a small screwdriver (OO size) under the central pivot and push dwon on the handle of the screwdriver gently. The fly bar will pop out. To replace simply push the central pivot back onto its mount on the headand then push the lower end of the double end tie bar back into place. Make sureyour fly bar is straight and that the weights on the end are screwed tightly in to place every time you fly your helicopter.


REPLACE THE 4 in 1 RECEIVER UNIT. remove the cabin. Unplug the 4 connectors, note how they are connected and which way up they are facing before unplugging. remove the pipe around the aerial. Unwrap the aerial from the chassis. Cut the tie wrap. Place the new 4 in 1 in postion making sure it isvertical and facing straight ahead, replace the tie wrap, make sure it is tight. Wrap the aerial round the small plate at the front of the chassis and push it through 2 of the 3 holes at the front. This is important , so the aerial will not unravel. Before replacing the canopy test that you have put all the plugs back in the right connections. Once you have done that and all the right things happen when you move the sticks put the canopy back on usingthe 4 screws.


REPLACE THE UPPER HEAD- remove the fly bar, unscrew one of the screws you can see on the top of the head, pull it out fully and seperate the 2 halves of the head. This will come away by making it pivot on the second screw. To replace reverse the procedure.


REPLACE THE UPPER SHAFT AND GEAR - It is easier to do this with the skids removed .. however removing the skids is a long process .. so this is the quick way. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the lower gear in place, do not pull them all the way out. hold the lower gear between your fingers and twist the upper head whilst pulling it away from the gear. Once released from thegear the shaft will slide upwards. The shaft may catch the upperbearing, if it does simply pull the bearing away from the shaft and place it back in the little black bearing holder. Push the new upper shaft back through the top bearing and down through the outer shaft. when you get to the bottom it will jam on the lower bearing. Do not force it in, the shaft will drop through the bearing with light pressure whilstturning it.The tricky part is ... getting the 2 screws in the gear to match upon the flatfaces of the shaft. You have to do this visually ... push the gear in to the gap between the skids, bring the shaft down to meet the hole and grab slightly .. you will see the flats on the shaft (do this in bright light it will help)..make sure the 2 screws on the gear are lined up and push the shaft in to the gear. You do need to hold the lower gear to do this (small fingers helps). There should bevery little slop in this assembly. screw up the 2 screws.


REPLACE LOWER HEAD.. remove UPPER SHAFT, remove the top black bearing, unscrew the 2 screws holding the head in place (do not remove them). Pull the lower head up the shaft.. to replace .. reverse. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP THE HOLES IN THE LOWER HEAD WITH THE HOLES IN THE LOWER SHAFT before screwing them up. Do not over tighten ,, you will strip the thread.


REPLACELOWER SHAFT AND GEAR...remove CABIN, remove TAIL, remove SKIDS, remove UPPER SHAFT, remove LOWER HEAD. Inbetween the swash plate and the top of the black body section you will find a collet with a grub screw. Release the grub screw using a 1.5 allen key, just give it one twist (ie dont take it out).Once removed push thethick shaft through the body section from the top and pull it out of the bottom. Some bearings .. like ther lower body one may be dragged out with it .. be careful not to lose them. To rebuild .. reverse !


MORE SOON !

WW2 British Military Vehicles AEC Austin Bedford Morris

WW2 British Military Vehicles


This is one of many illustrated classic military vehicle guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic WW2 British military vehicle art featured in this guide please click here.


This guide features several classic WW2 British vehicles.


AEC Matador 4x4 Artillery Tractor


In the medium Artillery class the British had a good vehicle in the AEC Matador, which first entered service in 1938. The Matador was developed from original FWD designs, by way of Hardy Motors 4/4 4x4 chassis which utilised many AEC components. The Matador was also pressed into service as a tank transporter in the Western Desert, towing Rogers trailers, often with the top half of the cab removed. Total production was 8,612, the last ones auctioned off as late as the mid-1970s.


Austin K2/Y 4x2 Heavy Ambulance


The most numerous British ambulance during WW2 was the Austin K2/Y 4x2 Heavy Ambulance. Affectionately known as the "Katie", some 13,000 were produced for the Allies. The body was of simple construction, a wood frame covered with leathercloth, well insulated, heated and accommodating four stretcher or eight sitting cases, or combinations of both, plus a medical attendant. The body design was the result of much pre-war development work by the Royal Army Medical Corps. It was produced by Mann Egerton, the specialist luxury car body builders.


Bedford QL Three-ton 4x4 Troop Carrier Truck


At the outbreak of World War II, Bedford was contracted by the British War Office to produce a 3-ton 4x4 general service truck, the first production vehicles arriving in early 1941. There were a number of variants on the basic design, including the GLT troop carrier with room for 29 troops and kit, popularly known as the Drooper and the QLR wireless truck, a vehicle specifically adapted to carry and fire the 6-pounder anti-tank gun from the body. The QL was probably the best known British 4x4 3-tonner.


Daimler Armoured Car Mk1


By 1938-39 the BSA Company had developed a light scout car, later known as the Daimler Dingo, and its good results on trials led to the suggestion that it could be scaled-up to become a full-sized armoured car. Work on this idea began in April 1939 and the prototypes were running before the end of the year. Due to initial troubles with transmission and other components, it was not until April 1941 that the Daimler Armoured Car Mk 1 entered service.


Guy Quad-Ant 4x4 Field Artillery Tractor


In 1938, encouraged by the successful development of 4x4 vehicles, a specification was laid down by the War Office for a field artillery tractor capable of handling the new 25pdr gun-howitzer. The first tractor to enter production was the Guy Quad-Ant, a quadruple-wheel-drive version of an earlier 4x2 15cwt infantry truck, known as the Ant. The name Quad became a generic term for this family of hump-backed multi-purpose bodied tractors that were to become a familiar sight on every battlefield. Total production of British Quads amounted to 5,000 units.


Hillman 4x2 Light Utility Car


In Britain, the lightest GS vehicles were classed as "Truck 5cwt 4x2 Light Utility", commonly known as Tillies, and were produced by Austin, Hillman, Morris and Standard, based on their individual 10 and 12hp pre-war passenger saloons. These vehicles lacked a reasonable cross-country performance and were largely replaced by the jeep in front-line units. Their light construction led to distortion of axles, chassis and suspension, and their low power-to-weight ratio led to excessive used of the gears, often causing gearbox failure.


Morris-Commercial C8 4x4 Field Artillery Tractor


Although the Quad gun tractor was originally developed by Guy Motors, by far the greatest number of vehicles to this basic design were produced by Morris-Commercial Motors. Designed for towing the 25-pdr gun-howitzer, it became the standard towing vehicle in all British field artillery regiments, and was widely used also by Commonwealth artillery and as a towing vehicle for the 17-pdr. anti tank gun. The peculiar shape and metallic sheathing of the Quad led to a common belief that it was bullet-proof - this was never so, the metal too thin to even keep out shell splinters.


Morris CS8 15-cwt 4x2 General Service Truck


The 15cwt GS truck was the first type of vehicle to go into mass production when full mechanisation of the British Army was undertaken in the 1930s. It was designed to carry the heavy personal equipment of an infantry platoon, such as blanket rolls, large packs, extra ammunition and rations. Morris-Commercial were first into production in 1934, with their CS8 Mk1, which was in quantity service by 1936. Minor changes were made to the front wings, bonnet and radiator during its production life before it was replaced by the C4 Mk 1, which had better weather protection.


Vickers Bren-Gun Carrier


The Bren Carrier began as a spin-off from the Vickers development work done on the light Dragon gun tractor. In 1934 this company developed a tracked vehicle which could double as a gun-tower or machine-gun carrier (for the Vickers medium machine gun) and also carry a complete four-man squad. Following the introduction of the Bren light machine gun in 1937 the concept was slightly changed. The Vickers gun was replaced by the Bren gun and the superstructure and interior armaments suitably modified. Issues began in 1938 on the scale of 10 carriers per infantry battalion, as the Carrier, Bren, No.2 Mark 1.


Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

Heavy Haulage Trucks Rotinoff GR7 Thornycroft Antar etc

Heavy Haulage Trucks


This is one of many illustrated classic heavy haulage guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic heavy haulage art featured in this guide please click here.


This guide features well known names and classic vehicles of the heavy haulage road transport scene during the 1950s and 1960s.


Foden (4x2) ( Edward Beck

LEGENDARY WEIHRAUCH HW80 AIR RIFLE.

WEIHRAUCH HW80.
It may have "been around" for 25 years + but despite its age the legendary powerhouse from German gunmakers WEIHRAUCH is still going strong! The problem with the HW80 when it first came out was keeping its power down to the 12ft lbs legal limit, it was, and still is one of the easiest guns to increase its power, which was great for those amongst us who held a F.A.C. Fire arms certificate,

The HW80 is a big heavy brute of a gun, its weight seemed to melt away when it was brought up to the shoulder and locked on target...Rabbits never really stood a chance against it, the HW80's accuracy was amazing, thanks no doubt to its Rekord trigger unit, this was, and still is to many airgunners the best trigger on any air rifle, I for one prefer the lighter BSA Lightning XL, which includesa much bettertrigger, but then again i have always been a big fan of BSA air rifles having started my shooting career with Meteor and Mercury rifles, the old Mercury "S" model to me is the ultimate air rifle! Right, back to the Weihrauch, workmanship is first rate, the action is superb and the stock is a thing of beauty, even an average shot will feel comfort and confidence shooting the HW80...perfection then? to many people yes, points out of a 100? a very worthy 88% !!


*If you found this guide to be helpful and of interest please vote for it by ticking the "YES" box below!


GUIDE JULY 2009, By Ken Lambourne.

Receiving Five with a Digibox without a Card

Receiving Five with a Sky Digibox without a Free to view card


In the next couple of months Sky will be replacing all the Blue yellow house cards with a new viewing card. The new card will be automatically sent to all existing and new subscribers. Unfortunately this will mean that all viewers who currently use a Free-to-View card or expired Blue yellow house Sky card to receive Five on their Sky Digiboxes will no longer be able to do so. With the old style card inserted in the box, Five will still appear in the listings but when selected the viewer will be asked to contact Sky. This will also be the case with Sky 3, Fiver and Five US.


However all is not lost as there is now a Free-to-Air version of Five available courtesy of Freesat (No card required) on 10.773 GHz, Horizontal, Sym Rate 22,000, FEC 5/6, which may be added to the other channels menu of your Sky digibox. To do this please execute the following instructions:-


To add Five to the other channels menu ensure that your digibox is operating normally then press Services, this will reveal the following menu


1)Using you Sky Digibox2)Telephone Numbers3)Parental Control4)System Setup5)Auto Standby6)Favourite Channels7)Other Channels


(Please note that Auto Standby only appears in 3.7.6, 1.2S4.FJ software or later, if your box has not been updated recently there will only be 6 items in this menu, 5) being Favourite Channels and 6) being other Channels


Press 4 or use the down arrow key to highlight System Setup and press select this will reveal the next menu


1)Picture settings2)Sound settings3)Language and Subtitles4)Add Channels5)System Details6)Signal Test7)System Test8)System Health Check


Press 4 or use the down arrow key to highlight Add Channels and press select this will reveal the next menu which should be as follows


Frequency 11.778Polarisation VSymbol Rate 27.5FEC 2/3Find Channels


With Frequency highlighted key 10773 from your remote, this should now appear in the frequency box, if you make a mistake press backup and the original 11.778 will be displayed. With 10773 shown in the frequency box press the down arrow key to select Polarisation, use the right arrow key to change this to H, press the down arrow key again to move to Symbol Rate and use the right arrow key to change this to 22, press the down arrow key again to move to FEC and press the right arrow key twice to select 5/6 finally press the down arrow key again to highlight Find Channels, press select and wait.


The following list of channels should now appear


BBC 1 London FiveBBC 2 EngETVBBC Tes 2BBC Tes 3BBC FourCBBC ChannelC Beebies BBC ThreeBBC 1 NI With BBC 1 highlighted use the right arrow key to highlight Five and press the yellow key to add a Tick, now press select to save either press Sky to return to the main picture or Back Up 3 times. Free-to-Air Five will now have been saved in your other channels menu


To now view the Free-to-air version of Five press the services key and then press either 6) or 7) depending on your version of software or use the down arrow key to highlight the Other Channels and press select. Five should now appear highlighted, press select to view.


Please note that as this channel is not in Sky EPG there will be no programme information i.e. Now/Next information displayed in the search and Scan Banner. At the time of writing it is unclear if FTA versions of Sky 3 Fiver and Five US will become available.


Auto Standby Function


When Sky sent out their last Software update upgrading it from 3.6.4.18, 1.2S4FH to 3.7.6, 1.2S4FJ they included an extra feature called Auto Standby which they didnt tell viewers about, which meant that updated boxes started to randomly switch to standby as the Auto Standby feature default was set to ON. In an unprecedented move Sky rolled back the software to 3.6.4.18 and retransmitted the update with this feature defaulted to OFF, and in the case of Pace boxes a new version of 3.7.6.ns was transmitted. However this did not totally correct the problem so if your boxes appears to randomly go into standby ensure that your digibox operating normally then press Services, this will reveal the following menu


1)Using you Sky Digibox2)Telephone Numbers3)Parental Control4)System Setup5)Auto Standby6)Favourite Channels7)Other Channels


Press 5 or use the down arrow key to highlight Auto Standby and press select this will reveal the next menu


Enable AutoStandy ONSave New settings


Press the right arrow key to set Auto Standby to OFFPress down arrow key and select to save new settings.


Please note that if a forced software update is executed using the backup key routine the Autostandby function will default to ON.